At one time seals were killed for the oil, but not so much anymore, other than in the Arctic where seal oil is still used to some degree. It is a bit of a myth that it is the whitecoat (baby) seals that are killed - the celebrities love doing those photo shoots. The seals that are killed are young seals, not babies, and they are killed for the fur, and for the meat to a certain extent. Most of the meat is sold fresh, and a small quantity is canned.Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
The fur quality is better
Monday, July 26, 2010
If drilling for oil on US soil meant displacing/killing 10,000 ....lets say baby seals
but the cost of gas would drop to 3.00 a gallon are you for it?If drilling for oil on US soil meant displacing/killing 10,000 ....lets say baby seals
Yes. I don't give a damn about baby seals.If drilling for oil on US soil meant displacing/killing 10,000 ....lets say baby seals
no
besides, the oil is going to run out eventually no matter what so we should be focusing on alternatives, not ways to suck a few more drops out just to get gas prices down a little...
No, because America is so greedy and they thrive on money and business so it will just go back up again and those ';baby seals'; would have died for nothing...
No, I wouldnt want 10,000 seals to die just so I could save $1.50 a gallon
NO, I would pay a little more rather than massacre a bunch of animals!
No!
No.
hell no
Probably not. Although with the demacrat's we just might have to.
Yes. I don't give a damn about baby seals.If drilling for oil on US soil meant displacing/killing 10,000 ....lets say baby seals
no
besides, the oil is going to run out eventually no matter what so we should be focusing on alternatives, not ways to suck a few more drops out just to get gas prices down a little...
No, because America is so greedy and they thrive on money and business so it will just go back up again and those ';baby seals'; would have died for nothing...
No, I wouldnt want 10,000 seals to die just so I could save $1.50 a gallon
NO, I would pay a little more rather than massacre a bunch of animals!
No!
No.
hell no
Probably not. Although with the demacrat's we just might have to.
I got a 93,94 astro van an the oil is leekin from the engine what would be the total on sealing the leek4 now?
oh yea you can react me at muckleshootn8tive253@yahoo.comI got a 93,94 astro van an the oil is leekin from the engine what would be the total on sealing the leek4 now?
Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have the engine shampooed, then checked for leaks. If nothing is super evident pay a few bucks for dye that can be added to the oil and then checked with a blacklight. This is the best way to find out exactly where it's leaking and a price can be generated that should be firm!I got a 93,94 astro van an the oil is leekin from the engine what would be the total on sealing the leek4 now?
If you want a quick fix for now, just go out and buy a bottle of AT205 and change the oil and filter and add this to the crankcase, if the oil leaks are not large it will seal it up.
Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have the engine shampooed, then checked for leaks. If nothing is super evident pay a few bucks for dye that can be added to the oil and then checked with a blacklight. This is the best way to find out exactly where it's leaking and a price can be generated that should be firm!I got a 93,94 astro van an the oil is leekin from the engine what would be the total on sealing the leek4 now?
If you want a quick fix for now, just go out and buy a bottle of AT205 and change the oil and filter and add this to the crankcase, if the oil leaks are not large it will seal it up.
Can overfilling oil in atv damage valve seals??
I realized I way over filled my atv by over a quart. It ran ok for a bit but then it started to smoke whenever I got on it and now it smokes right away after starting (maybe 15 sec after starting).
I tore it all down and the rings look good but my one valve seal doesn't hold the valve(slips down if pulled up) could this be my smoke problem or is there something else I should look for. Would overfilling cause this??? Thanks!!Can overfilling oil in atv damage valve seals??
How many strokes is it?
It might not be a problem if you have a two stroke, but just one stroke gears would probably get damaged for the extra oil. But they build them with idiots using them in mind, most riders aren't the brightest bulbs on the Christmas Tree. So it'll run till the next time you need to oil it again. Make sure you read the manual if you're not sure, cause if you mess up the oil again, you could seriously damage it in the future.eyeshadow
I tore it all down and the rings look good but my one valve seal doesn't hold the valve(slips down if pulled up) could this be my smoke problem or is there something else I should look for. Would overfilling cause this??? Thanks!!Can overfilling oil in atv damage valve seals??
How many strokes is it?
It might not be a problem if you have a two stroke, but just one stroke gears would probably get damaged for the extra oil. But they build them with idiots using them in mind, most riders aren't the brightest bulbs on the Christmas Tree. So it'll run till the next time you need to oil it again. Make sure you read the manual if you're not sure, cause if you mess up the oil again, you could seriously damage it in the future.
1990,740 Volvo,not run in 2 years.Heavy oil smoke,quiet turbo,boost gage operating,seals?Worth fixing?Bodygood
this volvo belongs to a friend that wants to dispose of it.it's a freebe and i have to move it 150 miles.with the mechanical problems,i know to have it towed.sitting for two years,what other maintenance should be done(autotrans,etc,)? the car has a great body and the leather interior is pretty good.any help would be greatly appreciated,because i have no knowledge of these cars and i'm an occasional weekend mechanic.
Thanks so much1990,740 Volvo,not run in 2 years.Heavy oil smoke,quiet turbo,boost gage operating,seals?Worth fixing?Bodygood
I had a 740 '86 which run 600,000km. Great cars and hard to kill. Give it a try, if the smoke is heavy at the start only than it's rubber sealing around the valves. Just add oil and enjoy.1990,740 Volvo,not run in 2 years.Heavy oil smoke,quiet turbo,boost gage operating,seals?Worth fixing?Bodygood
You should for sure drop the gas tank adn clean it. Probably need to replace the fuel pump, and for certain the filter. Don't start it too much with the old gas in there. I say it would be wirth it. Shoot, if you don't want it, let me know where it is and I'll go get it. I love to work on cars, and my sis really needs one. I would also replace the seals as they tend to dry rot. Inspect the tires closely, as they are probably dry rotted too.
Thanks so much1990,740 Volvo,not run in 2 years.Heavy oil smoke,quiet turbo,boost gage operating,seals?Worth fixing?Bodygood
I had a 740 '86 which run 600,000km. Great cars and hard to kill. Give it a try, if the smoke is heavy at the start only than it's rubber sealing around the valves. Just add oil and enjoy.1990,740 Volvo,not run in 2 years.Heavy oil smoke,quiet turbo,boost gage operating,seals?Worth fixing?Bodygood
You should for sure drop the gas tank adn clean it. Probably need to replace the fuel pump, and for certain the filter. Don't start it too much with the old gas in there. I say it would be wirth it. Shoot, if you don't want it, let me know where it is and I'll go get it. I love to work on cars, and my sis really needs one. I would also replace the seals as they tend to dry rot. Inspect the tires closely, as they are probably dry rotted too.
Yipe yea,,has the Oil contract in Iraq finally been sealed By Bush??? exclusive rights to the fields??,?
The number one non-military 'benchmark' Bush is pushing the Iraqi Parliament to enforce involves surrendering two-thirds of all of Iraq's oil fields to foreign, private corporations, which literally gives companies like Exxon-Mobil the right to STEAL Iraq's most valuable economic resource.
Even Iraq's puppet government understands how this would outrage Iraqi citizens. All this confirms is what the 'war' in Iraq was all about, from its very first day: OIL and WAR PROFITEERING. Nothing else.
George W. Bush, Dick Cheney, Don Rumsfeld, and all their war-mongering friends deserve a special OIL-soaked, blood-stained corner of Hell where they can rot for eternity, along with:
* 535 members of the most arrogant, incompetent, evil, contemptible, cowardly, corrupt Republican-led Congress that stood by and allowed Bush to run rip shod over our Constitution
-AND-
* 535 members of the most arrogant, incompetent, evil, contemptible, cowardly, corrupt Democratic-led Congress that promised to end this 'war' if elected, and - to date - has done nothing to honor that promise.
May God DAMN them ALL!!! -RKO- 10/19/07Yipe yea,,has the Oil contract in Iraq finally been sealed By Bush??? exclusive rights to the fields??,?
No, those contracts went to other countries long ago.Yipe yea,,has the Oil contract in Iraq finally been sealed By Bush??? exclusive rights to the fields??,?
What oil contract? Why don't you post a source to your so called question?
If so that must surely mean MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! Now can we bring our people home?
Even Iraq's puppet government understands how this would outrage Iraqi citizens. All this confirms is what the 'war' in Iraq was all about, from its very first day: OIL and WAR PROFITEERING. Nothing else.
George W. Bush, Dick Cheney, Don Rumsfeld, and all their war-mongering friends deserve a special OIL-soaked, blood-stained corner of Hell where they can rot for eternity, along with:
* 535 members of the most arrogant, incompetent, evil, contemptible, cowardly, corrupt Republican-led Congress that stood by and allowed Bush to run rip shod over our Constitution
-AND-
* 535 members of the most arrogant, incompetent, evil, contemptible, cowardly, corrupt Democratic-led Congress that promised to end this 'war' if elected, and - to date - has done nothing to honor that promise.
May God DAMN them ALL!!! -RKO- 10/19/07Yipe yea,,has the Oil contract in Iraq finally been sealed By Bush??? exclusive rights to the fields??,?
No, those contracts went to other countries long ago.Yipe yea,,has the Oil contract in Iraq finally been sealed By Bush??? exclusive rights to the fields??,?
What oil contract? Why don't you post a source to your so called question?
If so that must surely mean MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! Now can we bring our people home?
If George Bush found Oil inside of Baby Gay Seals would he wage a War of Terror on them too?
O please no, then Blair will of course be telling us it is proven that seals have the possibility to attack us within 24 hours, and without a doubt Spain again will be part of the Coalition of the Wailing and we're gonna have mass demonstrations where everyone is dressed as a seal.If George Bush found Oil inside of Baby Gay Seals would he wage a War of Terror on them too?
He's Gumby, dammit.If George Bush found Oil inside of Baby Gay Seals would he wage a War of Terror on them too?
I bet he'd wage a war even if the baby seals were not gay. Seals are anyway persecuted, it is such a shame.
If there is oil involved that ******* would do anything he could to get his hands on it.
ha ha ha you bet!!! and then we would see all US troops wearing seal fur and Bush saying the seals had WMD, and then he would change his statement: ';we did it so our soldiers didn't feel cold anymore, now we have to approve a new budget of 429,402,817 gazillion dollars so we can reorganize the baby seal land and free them from their gay slavery';
Sshhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!
He's listening right now! Keep it down in here!
of course!...don't give him any ideas...shh!...
Most likely. He loves his oil more then he loves Condi.
Seals aren't gay but penguins are
Are you kidding? Of course he would, he is such a waste of skin I hate that prick. he is dumber then a still born seal after all he had skin cancer a few in office have and yet no to stem cells what a F***ing moron.. There are people out there that like him and say so they are just as stupid... him a Christian yeah right even god cant stand the prick
For money and power I bet he's capable to accuse the Vatican of having weapons for massive destruction.
How quickly we all forget about 9/11 and other lifes lost that day .. it was not about oil but our safety as americans who were being targeted ..
as for oil .. ';wheres the oil'; all I see is my gas prices still climbing higher and higher
I'm very fond of this question. I dislike president Bush as a person, as a leader. Whatever the heck he thinks he is now. I think he'd have people go slauter all the seals, just to get oil. Even if our country didn't need it. He'd be too afraid that another country got it. He's such a jealous man. He thinks war is the best way to solve everything. What a monster. [not the word I wanted to use]
Oh honey, don't give that ******* any ideas. We know he hasn't got an intelligent thought in his head. I think if someone told him his daughters were full of oil, he'd kill them too.
I just don't like that evil man.
THE WAR ON TERRORISM WASNT ABOUT OIL AT ALL. OUR COUNTRY WAS ATTACKED. I DONT AGREE WITH SOME OF THE THINGS THAT GEORGE BUSH DOES, BUT THE FACT REMAINS THAT HE DID WHAT ANY OTHER PERSON WOULD HAVE DONE IF THEY WERE ATTACKED. IF IT INVOLVED OIL RICH COUNTRYS MORE BETTER FOR US. THE PEOPLE WE ATTACKED AND OVERCAME WERE MURDERING PEOPLE BY THE HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS AND USING GOD TO HIDE THIER BLOODTHIRSTY SOCIOPATHIC WANT TO MAKE PEOPLE SUFFER. I DONT LIKE THE BUSHES BUT I THANK GOD THERE WAS SOMEONE IN OFFICE THAT WAS STRONG ENOUGH TO MAKE A DECISION THAT WAS ABLE TO STOP THE TORTURING OF THOUSANDS OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN. HE PUT HIS REPUTATION AND CAREER ON THE LINE ON THE DECISIONS THAT HE MADE, INSTEAD OF WORRYING ABOUT HIMSELF HE TOOK CARE OF US AND OTHERS THAT REALLY HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE USA. THAT TAKES THE KIND OF RESPONSIBILITY THAT MAKES A GREAT PRESIDENT. SO, NO HE WOULDN'T WAGE WAR ON BABY SEALS UNLESS THEY WERE TRYING TO TEAR DOWN OUR WAY OF LIFE OR OTHERS.
He's Gumby, dammit.If George Bush found Oil inside of Baby Gay Seals would he wage a War of Terror on them too?
I bet he'd wage a war even if the baby seals were not gay. Seals are anyway persecuted, it is such a shame.
If there is oil involved that ******* would do anything he could to get his hands on it.
ha ha ha you bet!!! and then we would see all US troops wearing seal fur and Bush saying the seals had WMD, and then he would change his statement: ';we did it so our soldiers didn't feel cold anymore, now we have to approve a new budget of 429,402,817 gazillion dollars so we can reorganize the baby seal land and free them from their gay slavery';
Sshhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!
He's listening right now! Keep it down in here!
of course!...don't give him any ideas...shh!...
Most likely. He loves his oil more then he loves Condi.
Seals aren't gay but penguins are
Are you kidding? Of course he would, he is such a waste of skin I hate that prick. he is dumber then a still born seal after all he had skin cancer a few in office have and yet no to stem cells what a F***ing moron.. There are people out there that like him and say so they are just as stupid... him a Christian yeah right even god cant stand the prick
For money and power I bet he's capable to accuse the Vatican of having weapons for massive destruction.
How quickly we all forget about 9/11 and other lifes lost that day .. it was not about oil but our safety as americans who were being targeted ..
as for oil .. ';wheres the oil'; all I see is my gas prices still climbing higher and higher
I'm very fond of this question. I dislike president Bush as a person, as a leader. Whatever the heck he thinks he is now. I think he'd have people go slauter all the seals, just to get oil. Even if our country didn't need it. He'd be too afraid that another country got it. He's such a jealous man. He thinks war is the best way to solve everything. What a monster. [not the word I wanted to use]
Oh honey, don't give that ******* any ideas. We know he hasn't got an intelligent thought in his head. I think if someone told him his daughters were full of oil, he'd kill them too.
I just don't like that evil man.
THE WAR ON TERRORISM WASNT ABOUT OIL AT ALL. OUR COUNTRY WAS ATTACKED. I DONT AGREE WITH SOME OF THE THINGS THAT GEORGE BUSH DOES, BUT THE FACT REMAINS THAT HE DID WHAT ANY OTHER PERSON WOULD HAVE DONE IF THEY WERE ATTACKED. IF IT INVOLVED OIL RICH COUNTRYS MORE BETTER FOR US. THE PEOPLE WE ATTACKED AND OVERCAME WERE MURDERING PEOPLE BY THE HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS AND USING GOD TO HIDE THIER BLOODTHIRSTY SOCIOPATHIC WANT TO MAKE PEOPLE SUFFER. I DONT LIKE THE BUSHES BUT I THANK GOD THERE WAS SOMEONE IN OFFICE THAT WAS STRONG ENOUGH TO MAKE A DECISION THAT WAS ABLE TO STOP THE TORTURING OF THOUSANDS OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN. HE PUT HIS REPUTATION AND CAREER ON THE LINE ON THE DECISIONS THAT HE MADE, INSTEAD OF WORRYING ABOUT HIMSELF HE TOOK CARE OF US AND OTHERS THAT REALLY HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE USA. THAT TAKES THE KIND OF RESPONSIBILITY THAT MAKES A GREAT PRESIDENT. SO, NO HE WOULDN'T WAGE WAR ON BABY SEALS UNLESS THEY WERE TRYING TO TEAR DOWN OUR WAY OF LIFE OR OTHERS.
I'm putting new fork seals on my kawasaki gpz 550 unitrack and want to know what oil to put in and how much?
kawasaki gpz550 .I'm putting new fork seals on my kawasaki gpz 550 unitrack and want to know what oil to put in and how much?
200ml of 15w fork oil.I'm putting new fork seals on my kawasaki gpz 550 unitrack and want to know what oil to put in and how much?
Kawasaki manuals normally give the oil level distance below the top of the fork tube rather than simply X number of ounces. If you can't get the info from a dealer or someone with a manual and only one leg is leaking, unscrew the cap off of the one not leaking and stick a wire down into the tube, withdraw if and measure the distance from the top of the tube to the oil level. Use it just like a dipstick.
Just be careful when you remove the fork caps because they are under spring pressure. You don't want them to pop off and hit you in the chin. Also keep downward pressure when you unscrew them until they are completely unthreaded because you don't want the spring pressure to push the cap off, damaging the last one or two threads.
that would be fork oil and while you are in the dealers buying it, ask them how much to put in as without a manual i cant be sure
you will need hydraulic fluid check at your m/c shop is best.
200ml of 15w fork oil.I'm putting new fork seals on my kawasaki gpz 550 unitrack and want to know what oil to put in and how much?
Kawasaki manuals normally give the oil level distance below the top of the fork tube rather than simply X number of ounces. If you can't get the info from a dealer or someone with a manual and only one leg is leaking, unscrew the cap off of the one not leaking and stick a wire down into the tube, withdraw if and measure the distance from the top of the tube to the oil level. Use it just like a dipstick.
Just be careful when you remove the fork caps because they are under spring pressure. You don't want them to pop off and hit you in the chin. Also keep downward pressure when you unscrew them until they are completely unthreaded because you don't want the spring pressure to push the cap off, damaging the last one or two threads.
that would be fork oil and while you are in the dealers buying it, ask them how much to put in as without a manual i cant be sure
you will need hydraulic fluid check at your m/c shop is best.
1st oil change new car. mechanic said seals leaking. Dealer said leak is with new filter. Help!?
If it is really a 'new' car, you should have your dealership's service department do all the maintenance on it... that way, there's no questions in voiding your warranty.1st oil change new car. mechanic said seals leaking. Dealer said leak is with new filter. Help!?
I would have the dealer install a new filter as they are inexpensive. They are better trained than most quick oil change establishments .There is a seal in the filter and if the filter was overtightened or not tight enough this could cause the problem you speak of . Also if it was not screwed on straight and the threads which hold the filter on were damaged or faulty to begin with .But definitly stick with the dealer on this problem. If its other than the filter the dealer will be responsible for honering the warrenty and fixing it. Either way its an inexpensive fix for you.1st oil change new car. mechanic said seals leaking. Dealer said leak is with new filter. Help!?
Vehicle is still under warantee. They should do whatever it takes to repair the problem.
this is also going on my me, ahh i just went and has a oil changes and they didnt have the right size filter so he used the next size up now my drive way started to get oil spots every where!! go and have your oil changed once more to see if that may be the reason before the company sucks you into paying for something that doesnt even need to be fixed
Brand new car? Leave it at the dealer and call the factory rep. They fix it or replace the car.........Lemon law! Federal law.
I would say if you have a favorite mechanic that you use all the time and trust, go to him/her and get it checked out, or ask someone you trust to recommend someone. I hate to say but some cars (brand new) come with problems and this may be the case, it should be covered under the manufacture warrantee, and also check the lemon laws in your state, you may have some help there as well. but get it check from a reputable person and take it from there. Good Luck.
Have the dealer change your oil. Warranty if for defects in material %26amp; workmanship. If someone else installs a faulty part on your vehicle the manufacturer does not have to repair it under warranty. The garage that put on the faulty or wrong filter should be held responsible for the damages as it is their fault.
dealer says leak in filter, tell him replace it, if leak still exists, he was wrong
Have them check the oil filter to ensure they didn't double-gasket the thing...
Some shops when they get in a rush the tech will take the old filter off and not check if the old gasket came off too. Then when they put the new filter on, it's got a gasket affixed to it, you have two gaskets that no amount of tightening will prevent from eventually spraying oil all over the underside.
That's why now when I go to the oil change shops I specify that I want to see the filter and gasket when they're changed.
If its a new car..it should still be covered. If you took it to the dealership for the oil change, then they are responsible for fixing it. If you took it to another machanic, then you shouldnt have to pay and they would collect from whoever holds the waranty.
I would have the dealer install a new filter as they are inexpensive. They are better trained than most quick oil change establishments .There is a seal in the filter and if the filter was overtightened or not tight enough this could cause the problem you speak of . Also if it was not screwed on straight and the threads which hold the filter on were damaged or faulty to begin with .But definitly stick with the dealer on this problem. If its other than the filter the dealer will be responsible for honering the warrenty and fixing it. Either way its an inexpensive fix for you.1st oil change new car. mechanic said seals leaking. Dealer said leak is with new filter. Help!?
Vehicle is still under warantee. They should do whatever it takes to repair the problem.
this is also going on my me, ahh i just went and has a oil changes and they didnt have the right size filter so he used the next size up now my drive way started to get oil spots every where!! go and have your oil changed once more to see if that may be the reason before the company sucks you into paying for something that doesnt even need to be fixed
Brand new car? Leave it at the dealer and call the factory rep. They fix it or replace the car.........Lemon law! Federal law.
I would say if you have a favorite mechanic that you use all the time and trust, go to him/her and get it checked out, or ask someone you trust to recommend someone. I hate to say but some cars (brand new) come with problems and this may be the case, it should be covered under the manufacture warrantee, and also check the lemon laws in your state, you may have some help there as well. but get it check from a reputable person and take it from there. Good Luck.
Have the dealer change your oil. Warranty if for defects in material %26amp; workmanship. If someone else installs a faulty part on your vehicle the manufacturer does not have to repair it under warranty. The garage that put on the faulty or wrong filter should be held responsible for the damages as it is their fault.
dealer says leak in filter, tell him replace it, if leak still exists, he was wrong
Have them check the oil filter to ensure they didn't double-gasket the thing...
Some shops when they get in a rush the tech will take the old filter off and not check if the old gasket came off too. Then when they put the new filter on, it's got a gasket affixed to it, you have two gaskets that no amount of tightening will prevent from eventually spraying oil all over the underside.
That's why now when I go to the oil change shops I specify that I want to see the filter and gasket when they're changed.
If its a new car..it should still be covered. If you took it to the dealership for the oil change, then they are responsible for fixing it. If you took it to another machanic, then you shouldnt have to pay and they would collect from whoever holds the waranty.
Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
There is no excuse.
The meat used to be used as did the skins, but now the primary reasons seals are killed are for their penises (used in Chinese aphrodesiacs) and for enjoyment. Fisherman who compete with the seals like to see them dead as well.Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
THIS TOPIC HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH
SPECIAL EDUCATION
OR
STUDENTS WITH DISABILITIES!
Please take your clutter elsewhere, so that we can find questions of those that really need help.
BTW, no thumbs-up point. Report Abuse
Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
For their fur.
Club sandwiches not seals.
No, it's because the conservatives are currently in charge of America... I say, we get rid of 'em!eyeshadow
The meat used to be used as did the skins, but now the primary reasons seals are killed are for their penises (used in Chinese aphrodesiacs) and for enjoyment. Fisherman who compete with the seals like to see them dead as well.Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
THIS TOPIC HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH
SPECIAL EDUCATION
OR
STUDENTS WITH DISABILITIES!
Please take your clutter elsewhere, so that we can find questions of those that really need help.
BTW, no thumbs-up point. Report Abuse
Why people kill babies seals what is the popurse of that they do it for the oil or what?
For their fur.
Club sandwiches not seals.
No, it's because the conservatives are currently in charge of America... I say, we get rid of 'em!
I have a volvo s70 with 76000 miles. do you think my seals can handle switching to mobile 1 synthetic oil?
synthetic does not matter.. what you need to look at is viscosity= the thickness of the oil look in your owners manual it eill tell you the correct oil visc to useI have a volvo s70 with 76000 miles. do you think my seals can handle switching to mobile 1 synthetic oil?
If you don't have a seal problem now synthetic oil won't cause a seal problem.I have a volvo s70 with 76000 miles. do you think my seals can handle switching to mobile 1 synthetic oil?
If your seals are ok, the change to the synthetic oil
will not be a problem.
What can be a problem is if your car is old, and is
prone to using oil. A synthetic oil will be like any
high detergent oil, and will clean the engine well.
On an old engine some of the old oil will have
caked inside, and especially around the rings.
That will start to wash away, and you can start
using more oil.
If you might have a problem such as this, I
would suggest the use of products such as
Prolong, or Slick 50, and others to protect
the metal, and reduce friction instead of
changing to a synthetic oil.
Yes, your engine, seals can handle the synthetic oil, no problem.
It the seals are in good shape, then yes they can handle it. You hap to use the same grade old in the Mobile 1 Synthetic oil's. If you use 30 weight oil. You can use a 10 w 30 or a 5 w 30. The low number is when it is cold. The high number is when it is hot. Gives better start up when cold.
If you don't have a seal problem now synthetic oil won't cause a seal problem.I have a volvo s70 with 76000 miles. do you think my seals can handle switching to mobile 1 synthetic oil?
If your seals are ok, the change to the synthetic oil
will not be a problem.
What can be a problem is if your car is old, and is
prone to using oil. A synthetic oil will be like any
high detergent oil, and will clean the engine well.
On an old engine some of the old oil will have
caked inside, and especially around the rings.
That will start to wash away, and you can start
using more oil.
If you might have a problem such as this, I
would suggest the use of products such as
Prolong, or Slick 50, and others to protect
the metal, and reduce friction instead of
changing to a synthetic oil.
Yes, your engine, seals can handle the synthetic oil, no problem.
It the seals are in good shape, then yes they can handle it. You hap to use the same grade old in the Mobile 1 Synthetic oil's. If you use 30 weight oil. You can use a 10 w 30 or a 5 w 30. The low number is when it is cold. The high number is when it is hot. Gives better start up when cold.
My 96 Ford Aspire seems to have too much oil pressure. It blew out two cam seals and the dip stick. HELP?
ford expiredMy 96 Ford Aspire seems to have too much oil pressure. It blew out two cam seals and the dip stick. HELP?
I doubt your vehicle has to much oil pressure. You should inspect your PCV valve and hoses to make sure the engine can breath.My 96 Ford Aspire seems to have too much oil pressure. It blew out two cam seals and the dip stick. HELP?
i have never heard of to much oil pressure id check the PVC valve and tube if thats ok id check the head gasket to see if it is bad or check the brake check valve this is some of the things id check
I don't think oil pressure is the problem because this sounds more like too much blow by or rather Positive Crankcase [Vent] pressure so you should check that PCV valve to make sure that now only is the valve working but that the vacuum to it is also unrestricted. I can only hope that you don't have major piston/ring issues!
Sounds like you have too much oil in the engine
I doubt your vehicle has to much oil pressure. You should inspect your PCV valve and hoses to make sure the engine can breath.My 96 Ford Aspire seems to have too much oil pressure. It blew out two cam seals and the dip stick. HELP?
i have never heard of to much oil pressure id check the PVC valve and tube if thats ok id check the head gasket to see if it is bad or check the brake check valve this is some of the things id check
I don't think oil pressure is the problem because this sounds more like too much blow by or rather Positive Crankcase [Vent] pressure so you should check that PCV valve to make sure that now only is the valve working but that the vacuum to it is also unrestricted. I can only hope that you don't have major piston/ring issues!
Sounds like you have too much oil in the engine
Friday, July 23, 2010
Can you change oil valve stem seals without taking off the head of a 1998 vauxhall astra 1.4 16v?
it is smoking a blue smoke i have changed the head gasket the inlet gasket new plugs changed oil and oil filter new timing belt the piston and rings are sound its not using water the oil is not creamy but it is using a bit of oil and it isnt lossing any power the head or block is not cracked so i think it must be the stem seals and i cant not face taking the head of again but i might have to anyone any other ideas what might be causing the smoke oh i had it on the computer as well and nothing came upCan you change oil valve stem seals without taking off the head of a 1998 vauxhall astra 1.4 16v?
Yes it can be done with the head in situ. To check that it is the valve stem oil seals do the following. Drive the car fairly quickly, take your foot off the accelerator for a few seconds, then while looking in the rear view mirror put the acc. hard to the floor, if you see BLUE smoke coming from your exhaust it is the valve stem oil seals. You will need 2 special tools, 1 to screw in where the spark plug goes, to hold the valve up %26amp; 1 to compress the spring. I have done this procedure many times mainly on Fords. Good LuckCan you change oil valve stem seals without taking off the head of a 1998 vauxhall astra 1.4 16v?
No don't think so unless they've invented a tool for compressing the valve springs whilst holding the valve up at the same time
blue smoke at start up is an sign of valve guide and seals.sorry but thats it smoke on acceration is rings good luck.
There is a few on here that say yes and they are correct,TDC or string,both effective if you have the special tools to hold the cam etc.HOW ever,being out of the trade a while,my concern is that so many Astra/Cavallier were subject to this kind of thing with the breather system blocked.The culprit usually was the gauze filter inside the cam cover,held down by two 10mm bolts.These can be spread and cleaned but renewall is cheap.Check and clean the other pipes,and if one single small bore pipe goes to the intake or carb,this hole often blocks also Pistons create as much pressure going down the bore as up so it is important to release this pressure Good Luck
It is possible to change the valve seals with the head in place, you need to remove the spark plugs. Feed a length of natural fibre string into the cylinder. Turn the crank by hand until the piston pushes hard against the string.
Then its possible to remove the collets from the valves to remove the springs and valve steam seals.
Ja.
Yes you can i have done it many times first bring piston on the valves you mean to work on to tdc , then use a press down valve compressor remove cotters and valve springs and change seals , do each one the same way, but always make sure piston is a tdc or the valves will drop down untill it hits the piston
there was a tool for the ford cvh engines to do what you want but not for the the vauxhall...off with the head..bet you wish you did last time you removed the head eh?..
A useful way to confirm if it's the stem seals and not a piston/ring/gasket....
Firstly, if there is always black/blue smoke from the exhaust then it's likely to be something more serious. If it's intermittant though...
find a nice quiet road and preferably a friend to look out the back of your car. drive the car in say second gear, up to relatively high rpm, let off the gas and let the engine slow you down - this builds up a high vacuum in the engine and will pull oil past cracked or perished seals into the combustion chamber, then really put you foot down, if there's a big cloud of BLUE smoke behind you it's the seals.
HTH
hey mate you can take off the cam without disturbing the housing if you acquire a special tool. its a (vauxhall/opel No: 603 850 or equivalent) its available to depress the cam followers then the cam can be withdrawn. i used it to change seals in my 95 corsa 1.4 sri cant see why it wouldnt work.
Yes it can be done with the head in situ. To check that it is the valve stem oil seals do the following. Drive the car fairly quickly, take your foot off the accelerator for a few seconds, then while looking in the rear view mirror put the acc. hard to the floor, if you see BLUE smoke coming from your exhaust it is the valve stem oil seals. You will need 2 special tools, 1 to screw in where the spark plug goes, to hold the valve up %26amp; 1 to compress the spring. I have done this procedure many times mainly on Fords. Good LuckCan you change oil valve stem seals without taking off the head of a 1998 vauxhall astra 1.4 16v?
No don't think so unless they've invented a tool for compressing the valve springs whilst holding the valve up at the same time
blue smoke at start up is an sign of valve guide and seals.sorry but thats it smoke on acceration is rings good luck.
There is a few on here that say yes and they are correct,TDC or string,both effective if you have the special tools to hold the cam etc.HOW ever,being out of the trade a while,my concern is that so many Astra/Cavallier were subject to this kind of thing with the breather system blocked.The culprit usually was the gauze filter inside the cam cover,held down by two 10mm bolts.These can be spread and cleaned but renewall is cheap.Check and clean the other pipes,and if one single small bore pipe goes to the intake or carb,this hole often blocks also Pistons create as much pressure going down the bore as up so it is important to release this pressure Good Luck
It is possible to change the valve seals with the head in place, you need to remove the spark plugs. Feed a length of natural fibre string into the cylinder. Turn the crank by hand until the piston pushes hard against the string.
Then its possible to remove the collets from the valves to remove the springs and valve steam seals.
Ja.
Yes you can i have done it many times first bring piston on the valves you mean to work on to tdc , then use a press down valve compressor remove cotters and valve springs and change seals , do each one the same way, but always make sure piston is a tdc or the valves will drop down untill it hits the piston
there was a tool for the ford cvh engines to do what you want but not for the the vauxhall...off with the head..bet you wish you did last time you removed the head eh?..
A useful way to confirm if it's the stem seals and not a piston/ring/gasket....
Firstly, if there is always black/blue smoke from the exhaust then it's likely to be something more serious. If it's intermittant though...
find a nice quiet road and preferably a friend to look out the back of your car. drive the car in say second gear, up to relatively high rpm, let off the gas and let the engine slow you down - this builds up a high vacuum in the engine and will pull oil past cracked or perished seals into the combustion chamber, then really put you foot down, if there's a big cloud of BLUE smoke behind you it's the seals.
HTH
hey mate you can take off the cam without disturbing the housing if you acquire a special tool. its a (vauxhall/opel No: 603 850 or equivalent) its available to depress the cam followers then the cam can be withdrawn. i used it to change seals in my 95 corsa 1.4 sri cant see why it wouldnt work.
My ktm 125sx has oil comeing out of the pipe do i need to replace something in the enigine like rings or seals?
any two stroke engine spits oil out of the tail pipe youre fine dude
Will I be able to carry 2 sealed bottles of olive oil through security? ea. 250 mm?
nope.. but it in your checked baggage, or dont bother to bring them at all.. save your money.. I learned the hard way.Will I be able to carry 2 sealed bottles of olive oil through security? ea. 250 mm?
Absolutely not! The limit is 100 ml. Olive oil is very expensive and you do not want to risk airport security taking it away. I have seen many sad faces when they do and some of them are pretty expensive items as well.Will I be able to carry 2 sealed bottles of olive oil through security? ea. 250 mm?
not on your carry on. put it in your checked luggage.
I assume you mean through airport security, the answer is no, definately not, 100ml, which is a spot, and the bottle cant hold more either, like you cant have a big bottle and take a spot through
I had a friend who tried exactly this, he had two bottles of clarified liposuction fat and a bottle of fertilizer and also a bottle of diesel gasoline. He is spending 10 years in prison right now.
I'm not sure, In Louisiana you can carry on what ever you can fit in one small ziplock bag. To be safe I would just put them in my luggage so I wouldn't have to deal with the thing. It is all just very frustrating to me.
Liquids must be in 3 oz containers and all fit in one one-quart bag, so the answer would be no.
If you put it in your checked baggage, pack it *extremely* carefully. It might be best to ship them to the destination; costs more, but you can be assured of getting your bottles unbroken.
That will be a no. You can pack these into your checked luggage, but will not be able to carry it in your carry-on.
why dont you call security and ask them
is it a flammable liquid? COMMON SENSE
No. You can only carry one really small bottle.
I don't think so. You mean on an airplane? They will make you toss it, it is best to ship it first.
Nope, you will have to wrap them well and pack them in your suitcase.
No you cant. you have to check them in
Nope, they will be searched for and destroyed
No you'll have to put it in a checked bag. Must be some good olive oil huh?
No, these will have to be checked in your luggage. Any liquid that gets carried onto the plane must be in containers less than 3 oz. Just wrap them really well in a bag and then in some of your clothing and you shouldn't have any problem.
No check them.
No.
Absolutely not! The limit is 100 ml. Olive oil is very expensive and you do not want to risk airport security taking it away. I have seen many sad faces when they do and some of them are pretty expensive items as well.Will I be able to carry 2 sealed bottles of olive oil through security? ea. 250 mm?
not on your carry on. put it in your checked luggage.
I assume you mean through airport security, the answer is no, definately not, 100ml, which is a spot, and the bottle cant hold more either, like you cant have a big bottle and take a spot through
I had a friend who tried exactly this, he had two bottles of clarified liposuction fat and a bottle of fertilizer and also a bottle of diesel gasoline. He is spending 10 years in prison right now.
I'm not sure, In Louisiana you can carry on what ever you can fit in one small ziplock bag. To be safe I would just put them in my luggage so I wouldn't have to deal with the thing. It is all just very frustrating to me.
Liquids must be in 3 oz containers and all fit in one one-quart bag, so the answer would be no.
If you put it in your checked baggage, pack it *extremely* carefully. It might be best to ship them to the destination; costs more, but you can be assured of getting your bottles unbroken.
That will be a no. You can pack these into your checked luggage, but will not be able to carry it in your carry-on.
why dont you call security and ask them
is it a flammable liquid? COMMON SENSE
No. You can only carry one really small bottle.
I don't think so. You mean on an airplane? They will make you toss it, it is best to ship it first.
Nope, you will have to wrap them well and pack them in your suitcase.
No you cant. you have to check them in
Nope, they will be searched for and destroyed
No you'll have to put it in a checked bag. Must be some good olive oil huh?
No, these will have to be checked in your luggage. Any liquid that gets carried onto the plane must be in containers less than 3 oz. Just wrap them really well in a bag and then in some of your clothing and you shouldn't have any problem.
No check them.
No.
Is it possible to reuse the oil pan gasket from a 91 chevy cavalier 3.1 vin T? Seals fine, pan is just bent.?
The pan is just bent, it seals fine. Do I need to buy a new gasket as well?Is it possible to reuse the oil pan gasket from a 91 chevy cavalier 3.1 vin T? Seals fine, pan is just bent.?
.Is it possible to reuse the oil pan gasket from a 91 chevy cavalier 3.1 vin T? Seals fine, pan is just bent.?
Spend the little amount of money and get a new gasket. Look at it this way, new gasket now $ amount vs,, the oil you need to fill it back up, or a tow + time/$ to fix the leak again = more than the gasket will cost
put a new gasket on it, it's cheap compared to having to pull the pan off again when you find out that it leaks after you start it up.
i would not risk it. the amount of labor to pull that pan back down to replace the gasket is just not worth it.
yes buy a new gasket...you DON'T know the seal is fine unless it fits YOU somehow and you're able to test it on yourself.
gaskets are cheap buy a new oneeyeshadow
.Is it possible to reuse the oil pan gasket from a 91 chevy cavalier 3.1 vin T? Seals fine, pan is just bent.?
Spend the little amount of money and get a new gasket. Look at it this way, new gasket now $ amount vs,, the oil you need to fill it back up, or a tow + time/$ to fix the leak again = more than the gasket will cost
put a new gasket on it, it's cheap compared to having to pull the pan off again when you find out that it leaks after you start it up.
i would not risk it. the amount of labor to pull that pan back down to replace the gasket is just not worth it.
yes buy a new gasket...you DON'T know the seal is fine unless it fits YOU somehow and you're able to test it on yourself.
gaskets are cheap buy a new one
My car is burning oil is there a way to tell if its valve seals or the rings?
Check your smoke from your tail pipe....Black is burning oil and white smoke busted head gasket burning up water.My car is burning oil is there a way to tell if its valve seals or the rings?
Valve seals--Smoke when first started
Rings--Smoke all the time.
check your pcv system.My car is burning oil is there a way to tell if its valve seals or the rings?
Valve stem seals will leak oil when the engine is off...., a minute or so after the engine is started..... that oil will be burned off and won't leak until its shut down again.
The real test is to take out a plug, screw a compression Gage into the hole, crank the engine and check the compression, remove Gage, squirt some heavy motor oil into the hole, replace the Gage and recheck the compression, IF the compression reading is higher then the 1st reading then it means the oil you squirted into the cylinder has temporarily sealed the rings and you have bad rings, if there is no change in compression pressure then the valve seals or guides are leaking, generally speaking if you are burning oil you need a new motor or car.
Valve seals will smoke some when first starting the vehicle and then clear up in a few minutes of operation. If tyhe rings are bad the car will smoke almost continuously and with hard acceleration. The oil smoke from both of these should be a light blue colored smoke. Overload of fuel is usually black sooty smoke and head gasket smoke is white steamy smoke.
Sure, start it up and drive it. If it only smokes when it's cold, then your valve seals are bad. If it smokes all of the time it's most likely your rings. Do a compression check. If compression is low, you know for sure. Oil burning in excess will eventually burn exhaust valves. Usually just one but it needs to be fixed to prevent further damage. Good luck.
My 93 GMC Safari van blows smoke when it starts sometimes. Its called Chevy smoke reffering to the type of smoke thats prone when valve stem seals go bad in the Chevy engines.
hmmm well a compression tester might help if its got low compression most likely its the rings
Valve seals--Smoke when first started
Rings--Smoke all the time.
check your pcv system.My car is burning oil is there a way to tell if its valve seals or the rings?
Valve stem seals will leak oil when the engine is off...., a minute or so after the engine is started..... that oil will be burned off and won't leak until its shut down again.
The real test is to take out a plug, screw a compression Gage into the hole, crank the engine and check the compression, remove Gage, squirt some heavy motor oil into the hole, replace the Gage and recheck the compression, IF the compression reading is higher then the 1st reading then it means the oil you squirted into the cylinder has temporarily sealed the rings and you have bad rings, if there is no change in compression pressure then the valve seals or guides are leaking, generally speaking if you are burning oil you need a new motor or car.
Valve seals will smoke some when first starting the vehicle and then clear up in a few minutes of operation. If tyhe rings are bad the car will smoke almost continuously and with hard acceleration. The oil smoke from both of these should be a light blue colored smoke. Overload of fuel is usually black sooty smoke and head gasket smoke is white steamy smoke.
Sure, start it up and drive it. If it only smokes when it's cold, then your valve seals are bad. If it smokes all of the time it's most likely your rings. Do a compression check. If compression is low, you know for sure. Oil burning in excess will eventually burn exhaust valves. Usually just one but it needs to be fixed to prevent further damage. Good luck.
My 93 GMC Safari van blows smoke when it starts sometimes. Its called Chevy smoke reffering to the type of smoke thats prone when valve stem seals go bad in the Chevy engines.
hmmm well a compression tester might help if its got low compression most likely its the rings
Why do all of these hell-spawned republicans think they can extract oil out of baby seals in Alaska?
Well, grilled seal is a little greasy. Sounds like a good idea to me.Why do all of these hell-spawned republicans think they can extract oil out of baby seals in Alaska?
Hell-spawned Republicans?Why do all of these hell-spawned republicans think they can extract oil out of baby seals in Alaska?
well, I don't think trying to demonize Republicans is a very responsible strategy, comparing oil drilling to extracting oil from baby seals makes you look stupid and makes people take you less seriously, I'm not a republican, I'm a center-left kinda guy, and I think childish insults are not necessary.
'Cos they're morons?
Hell-spawned Republicans?Why do all of these hell-spawned republicans think they can extract oil out of baby seals in Alaska?
well, I don't think trying to demonize Republicans is a very responsible strategy, comparing oil drilling to extracting oil from baby seals makes you look stupid and makes people take you less seriously, I'm not a republican, I'm a center-left kinda guy, and I think childish insults are not necessary.
'Cos they're morons?
1996 Mustang Cobra 5 speed manual trans.Is there serviceable trans or clutch oil or a sealed gearbox?
Trans is serviceable, Clutch is a dry clutch system.
1999 yz 125. Im putting in new fork seals and i was wondering how much new oil to put in each fork....?
my friend did his 96 kx 125. and his manual said the amount to put in and he did so with the measuring cup for oil. i dont have a manual so if anyone could find out how much to put in thank you. its a 99 yz 125.1999 yz 125. Im putting in new fork seals and i was wondering how much new oil to put in each fork....?
i believe it is 8 ounces per fork but not sure. contact your local dealer for info.
i believe it is 8 ounces per fork but not sure. contact your local dealer for info.
HELP! Leaky oil question/seals?
2000 crown vic
126k
I did a tunup and pulled out a plug from the combustion chamber andI have oil on the threads of the spark plugs and the tip too. The car is misfiring on 3 and 4 cyl.
my question again is
the mechanic said it needs spark plug seals and the other guy said it need valve stem seals?
Is that the same thing?
one guy siad the valve cover needs to be removed and on the back of it it has some grommets that are leaky.
is this right?
what the Heck is going on here?
thanksHELP! Leaky oil question/seals?
Never herd of well seals,but valve stem oil seals yes. These sit on top of the valve guides on the cylinder head to prevent oil from running down the valve stem and into the cylinder.If your car is misfiring and running poorly,get a compression test carried out,this will tell you if it is a blown headgasket or a burnt valve or worn piston rings.There are 2 types of compression test. A dry test,where you insert the compression guage and crank the engine and note the readings of a particular cylinder.The 2 nd test is where you put a small amount of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and again crank the engine and note the readings.If the compression increases with a small amount of oil added to the cylinder,this indicates worn piston rings.If the reading remains the same as the dry test,its either a head gasket or burnt valve.Or it could simply be a valve cover gasket leaking....easy enough to change..hope this is some assistance to you.HELP! Leaky oil question/seals?
valve covers seals/grommets leaking is a very common problem and usualyl causes oil on the spakr plug threads
happens all the time on most makes and models and has been a problme since well the beginning of existence of the internal combustion overhead valve engines
have the VC gaskets/grommets replaced and put new wires on it and new plugs too if they are badly oil soaked or are physically worn from mileage
and then see how it does over time
good luck
If its the valve cover, then there's be visible oil around the valve cover. If that's not it then I might believe valve stem seals.
Spark plug seal???
Mechanic for thirteen years and never heard of them.
Actually, it needs spark plug well seals, which are usually under the top of the valve cover. Its NOT valve stem seals-don't ever take your vehicle back to THAT guy again.
spark plug seals.???.listen better or get new mechanic if u heard right..just put new plugs and see how it runs before u let these jokers take your money..original plug wires??? way overdueeyeshadow
126k
I did a tunup and pulled out a plug from the combustion chamber andI have oil on the threads of the spark plugs and the tip too. The car is misfiring on 3 and 4 cyl.
my question again is
the mechanic said it needs spark plug seals and the other guy said it need valve stem seals?
Is that the same thing?
one guy siad the valve cover needs to be removed and on the back of it it has some grommets that are leaky.
is this right?
what the Heck is going on here?
thanksHELP! Leaky oil question/seals?
Never herd of well seals,but valve stem oil seals yes. These sit on top of the valve guides on the cylinder head to prevent oil from running down the valve stem and into the cylinder.If your car is misfiring and running poorly,get a compression test carried out,this will tell you if it is a blown headgasket or a burnt valve or worn piston rings.There are 2 types of compression test. A dry test,where you insert the compression guage and crank the engine and note the readings of a particular cylinder.The 2 nd test is where you put a small amount of oil into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and again crank the engine and note the readings.If the compression increases with a small amount of oil added to the cylinder,this indicates worn piston rings.If the reading remains the same as the dry test,its either a head gasket or burnt valve.Or it could simply be a valve cover gasket leaking....easy enough to change..hope this is some assistance to you.HELP! Leaky oil question/seals?
valve covers seals/grommets leaking is a very common problem and usualyl causes oil on the spakr plug threads
happens all the time on most makes and models and has been a problme since well the beginning of existence of the internal combustion overhead valve engines
have the VC gaskets/grommets replaced and put new wires on it and new plugs too if they are badly oil soaked or are physically worn from mileage
and then see how it does over time
good luck
If its the valve cover, then there's be visible oil around the valve cover. If that's not it then I might believe valve stem seals.
Spark plug seal???
Mechanic for thirteen years and never heard of them.
Actually, it needs spark plug well seals, which are usually under the top of the valve cover. Its NOT valve stem seals-don't ever take your vehicle back to THAT guy again.
spark plug seals.???.listen better or get new mechanic if u heard right..just put new plugs and see how it runs before u let these jokers take your money..original plug wires??? way overdue
I heard about blue smoke is caused by worn seals. Is it possible by too much oil?
If I remember correctly,blue smoke is from leaking valve stems if the thing smokes during the first few minutes of being cranked.While white smoke comes from higher temp,blown head gasket,cracked head or block.I heard about blue smoke is caused by worn seals. Is it possible by too much oil?
too much oil does cause blue smoke from the tail pipeI heard about blue smoke is caused by worn seals. Is it possible by too much oil?
Yes, blue smoke means your engine is burning oil. It must have high milage...it could be worn valve seals or piston rings. It could also be a blown head gasket.
EDIT: White smoke is caused by anti-freeze in the combustion chamber - blown head gasket.
Blue smoke means your engine is buring oil along with the gas it should be burning. It will ruin your engine if you don;t fix it.
yea, if you overfill the oil the engine will burn the excess but the blue smoke could be caused by other things as well
Yup. Could be cylinder head gasket.
too much oil does cause blue smoke from the tail pipeI heard about blue smoke is caused by worn seals. Is it possible by too much oil?
Yes, blue smoke means your engine is burning oil. It must have high milage...it could be worn valve seals or piston rings. It could also be a blown head gasket.
EDIT: White smoke is caused by anti-freeze in the combustion chamber - blown head gasket.
Blue smoke means your engine is buring oil along with the gas it should be burning. It will ruin your engine if you don;t fix it.
yea, if you overfill the oil the engine will burn the excess but the blue smoke could be caused by other things as well
Yup. Could be cylinder head gasket.
Any uses for baby seals besides fur coats , oil and dog food?
Not that I know of. They say killing is to control population!!Any uses for baby seals besides fur coats , oil and dog food?
Growing up and producing more baby Seals?
Growing up and producing more baby Seals?
Valve seals are going bad I'm burning oil can bad seals mess up my motor in a long run
im going to get them fixed i am just low on money till fridayValve seals are going bad I'm burning oil can bad seals mess up my motor in a long run
For a few days it shouldn't cause any damage, so long as you keep the oil topped up. Let it burn oil for a long time though and there is a chance it could wreck the catalitic converter, although that dosn't always happen.Valve seals are going bad I'm burning oil can bad seals mess up my motor in a long run
it will be ok. once you start it, the oil will burn off the valves. i drove cars for a long time with bad valve seals.
Have had many oil burners in past%26gt; I added additive and most all stoped burning oil%26gt; Try it a few dollars is less $ than the valve seal job%26gt; And it won't do any harm%26gt; 500 miles is the time%26gt; My Diesels leaked oil in my boat %26gt; Added 2 can of stop leak %26amp; sealer the engine stop the leak in 2 hrs running%26gt;So I'm happy%26gt; Good luck%26gt;
Nope .. just keep on addin oil and oil and oil and oil and......
than put or have the seals put in ....wala !
you will just keep using more oil by ignoring them, the seals themselves are cheap.
well if you need valve seals its pretty much wore out now so your talking about long run well that is now so no really ..not much.... it will mess the motor up running out of oil or low on oil more...they dont just go bad over nite so you have had the problem for sometime and yes it can wait til friday to start fixing.. and you know its going to be a few days job if not longer
A few more days won't hurt if it is just valve seals. If it is valve seals only, you will notice the smoke on start up but it should settle down in normal driving.
For a few days it shouldn't cause any damage, so long as you keep the oil topped up. Let it burn oil for a long time though and there is a chance it could wreck the catalitic converter, although that dosn't always happen.Valve seals are going bad I'm burning oil can bad seals mess up my motor in a long run
it will be ok. once you start it, the oil will burn off the valves. i drove cars for a long time with bad valve seals.
Have had many oil burners in past%26gt; I added additive and most all stoped burning oil%26gt; Try it a few dollars is less $ than the valve seal job%26gt; And it won't do any harm%26gt; 500 miles is the time%26gt; My Diesels leaked oil in my boat %26gt; Added 2 can of stop leak %26amp; sealer the engine stop the leak in 2 hrs running%26gt;So I'm happy%26gt; Good luck%26gt;
Nope .. just keep on addin oil and oil and oil and oil and......
than put or have the seals put in ....wala !
you will just keep using more oil by ignoring them, the seals themselves are cheap.
well if you need valve seals its pretty much wore out now so your talking about long run well that is now so no really ..not much.... it will mess the motor up running out of oil or low on oil more...they dont just go bad over nite so you have had the problem for sometime and yes it can wait til friday to start fixing.. and you know its going to be a few days job if not longer
A few more days won't hurt if it is just valve seals. If it is valve seals only, you will notice the smoke on start up but it should settle down in normal driving.
Theoretical; bad valve stem seals...smoking...synthetic oil?
89 Chrysler NY 3.0L Mitsubishi...........car in otherwise great shape..smoking though. I've been told it's valve stem seals...will replace in a month or two..in the meantime, smoking is horrible....I've been told that Restore doesn't work at all to cut down on smoking. How about synthetic oil? With combustion point so high in the engine, would synthetic oil burn and smoke less? Would it make a difference?Theoretical; bad valve stem seals...smoking...synthetic oil?
You have a condition called out of specification valve guides. No valve seal in the world will remedy this problem. What most likely has happened is the clearance between the valve stems and the honed guide holes has expanded over .003 from that point on oil starts sucking down the guide in decelleration causing oil smoking. If you or a friend sees smoke all the time while your car's on the road you probably have stuck or warn piston rings. A compression test will differentiate the two problems.Theoretical; bad valve stem seals...smoking...synthetic oil?
not very much
You have a condition called out of specification valve guides. No valve seal in the world will remedy this problem. What most likely has happened is the clearance between the valve stems and the honed guide holes has expanded over .003 from that point on oil starts sucking down the guide in decelleration causing oil smoking. If you or a friend sees smoke all the time while your car's on the road you probably have stuck or warn piston rings. A compression test will differentiate the two problems.Theoretical; bad valve stem seals...smoking...synthetic oil?
not very much
What oil to use on Gamo PT 80 seals?
Hi i just brought a Gamo PT80 airpistol, ive herd people have had problems with the seals breaking. I cant find any pellgun oil where I live what other oil is good to put on top of each c02 can, is Super oil ok? its non petroleum based. CheersWhat oil to use on Gamo PT 80 seals?
Crosman Pelgun Oil or the oil Gamo sells.
Crosman Pelgun Oil or the oil Gamo sells.
Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
you need a service manual, preferably the factory service manual. See http://www.shop.evinrude.com
too many special tools required and too many steps to list here. requires some precise measurements unique to each model #. A mistake or missed step could result in catastrophic failure requiring complete rebuild at a cost of $thousands.Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
trust me take it to a boat shop it's a pain in the butteyeshadow
too many special tools required and too many steps to list here. requires some precise measurements unique to each model #. A mistake or missed step could result in catastrophic failure requiring complete rebuild at a cost of $thousands.Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
trust me take it to a boat shop it's a pain in the butt
Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
You will have foaming of the fluid, this foaming will cause the shifting stress as in you have too little fluid.
You can damage your seals, and eventually the clutches get burned.
If you have a transmission dip stick, you can use a Mighty-Vac available at harbor freight, and at a Auto jobber, with a piece of hose smaller than the diameter of the fill tube (avail at a good hardware store) and suck the excess fluid out. Other wise you may have to drop the pan to drain it out.
Vw states that driving the car 2 miles wil sufficiently warm the transmission to get a proper oil level fill to the ';hot mark';.
To check the fluid level, transmission warn, engine running in park.
If you don't have the dip stick, then where ever you puored the tranny fluid in you may be able to suck it out there too.Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
If you are talking about too much ATF, the fluid will foam and cause damage to the transmission. Make sure you used the correct Type of ATF or you will really mess up!! Do you know most ATF levels are set with the motor running, the transmission warmed up and the shift lever in either Park or Neutral?
You can damage your seals, and eventually the clutches get burned.
If you have a transmission dip stick, you can use a Mighty-Vac available at harbor freight, and at a Auto jobber, with a piece of hose smaller than the diameter of the fill tube (avail at a good hardware store) and suck the excess fluid out. Other wise you may have to drop the pan to drain it out.
Vw states that driving the car 2 miles wil sufficiently warm the transmission to get a proper oil level fill to the ';hot mark';.
To check the fluid level, transmission warn, engine running in park.
If you don't have the dip stick, then where ever you puored the tranny fluid in you may be able to suck it out there too.Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
If you are talking about too much ATF, the fluid will foam and cause damage to the transmission. Make sure you used the correct Type of ATF or you will really mess up!! Do you know most ATF levels are set with the motor running, the transmission warmed up and the shift lever in either Park or Neutral?
Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
I have a 2001 Ford E350 van. My ';Service Engine Soon'; light came on as I was noticing some power loss and engine roughness. I pulled off the freeway within 3 to 5 minutes to find the remaining oil pooling underneath. the entire underside and back side of the van was coated. After getting the repair which included:
Oil pan Gasket - E350 Super Duty, Gas, V10 F7UZ 6710 AA
Thermostat - E350 Super Duty Diesel
Main Bearing Oil Seal/Rear Engine Cover plate -E 350 Super Duty Diesel - Rear F4TZ 6701 A
Then, of course Oil %26amp; Filter
After driving it home after the repair I noticed that at near 50 to 55 MPH there is a little subtle roughness that I'm not accustomed to. I also noticed that same subtle roughness the day BEFORE these seals went out. Maybe I'm just paranoid but is there something I should know about before I go on a long trip tomorrow?Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
If your rings are worn, the exess blowby could have blown out the rear main seal and caused other leaks. 2001-what's your mileage? Have you got an airfilter that works? Any induction leaks? What's your compression like? Are you using oil?
WARNING: A worn diesel will run on sump fume blowby with increased power until the sump is dry-wrecking the engine. There are 2 easy ways to stop a motor in this mode- 1 throw the decompressor, or 2 seal the air intake until it stops-do NOT use your hand!!! NO, I wouldn't drive it anywhere until I knew much more about what's going on. And the mechanic is a fool for not suggesting these scenarios, as they're well known to all competent diesel mechanics.Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
did your mechanic ck the rod and main bearings 4 damage when replacing r/main seal ? after that much oil loss, damage could have accured to the bottom end causing vibration or roughness. cause could have been oil pump relief spring sticking.was the oil pump replaced?
Is it still leaking oil?
use another truck....
It is possible that engine blowby caused the seals to blow out and it may repeat itself in short order. Have the compression and blowby checked.
how low was the oil level in the pan?what it MAY be is you filled the high pressure oil system with air.these engines need a minimum of 500PSI of oil pressure to fire the injectors.the pressure will reach 3000 PSI at wide oppen throttle.now if you got air in this system it will take about a day of driving to get all the air out and get it back to running normal.
Oil pan Gasket - E350 Super Duty, Gas, V10 F7UZ 6710 AA
Thermostat - E350 Super Duty Diesel
Main Bearing Oil Seal/Rear Engine Cover plate -E 350 Super Duty Diesel - Rear F4TZ 6701 A
Then, of course Oil %26amp; Filter
After driving it home after the repair I noticed that at near 50 to 55 MPH there is a little subtle roughness that I'm not accustomed to. I also noticed that same subtle roughness the day BEFORE these seals went out. Maybe I'm just paranoid but is there something I should know about before I go on a long trip tomorrow?Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
If your rings are worn, the exess blowby could have blown out the rear main seal and caused other leaks. 2001-what's your mileage? Have you got an airfilter that works? Any induction leaks? What's your compression like? Are you using oil?
WARNING: A worn diesel will run on sump fume blowby with increased power until the sump is dry-wrecking the engine. There are 2 easy ways to stop a motor in this mode- 1 throw the decompressor, or 2 seal the air intake until it stops-do NOT use your hand!!! NO, I wouldn't drive it anywhere until I knew much more about what's going on. And the mechanic is a fool for not suggesting these scenarios, as they're well known to all competent diesel mechanics.Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
did your mechanic ck the rod and main bearings 4 damage when replacing r/main seal ? after that much oil loss, damage could have accured to the bottom end causing vibration or roughness. cause could have been oil pump relief spring sticking.was the oil pump replaced?
Is it still leaking oil?
use another truck....
It is possible that engine blowby caused the seals to blow out and it may repeat itself in short order. Have the compression and blowby checked.
how low was the oil level in the pan?what it MAY be is you filled the high pressure oil system with air.these engines need a minimum of 500PSI of oil pressure to fire the injectors.the pressure will reach 3000 PSI at wide oppen throttle.now if you got air in this system it will take about a day of driving to get all the air out and get it back to running normal.
Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
you need a service manual, preferably the factory service manual. See http://www.shop.evinrude.com
too many special tools required and too many steps to list here. requires some precise measurements unique to each model #. A mistake or missed step could result in catastrophic failure requiring complete rebuild at a cost of $thousands.Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
trust me take it to a boat shop it's a pain in the butt
too many special tools required and too many steps to list here. requires some precise measurements unique to each model #. A mistake or missed step could result in catastrophic failure requiring complete rebuild at a cost of $thousands.Just drained the lower unit oil in 1996 Evinrude Ocean pro. Oil is chocalot, how to replace seals in lwr unit?
trust me take it to a boat shop it's a pain in the butt
Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
You will have foaming of the fluid, this foaming will cause the shifting stress as in you have too little fluid.
You can damage your seals, and eventually the clutches get burned.
If you have a transmission dip stick, you can use a Mighty-Vac available at harbor freight, and at a Auto jobber, with a piece of hose smaller than the diameter of the fill tube (avail at a good hardware store) and suck the excess fluid out. Other wise you may have to drop the pan to drain it out.
Vw states that driving the car 2 miles wil sufficiently warm the transmission to get a proper oil level fill to the ';hot mark';.
To check the fluid level, transmission warn, engine running in park.
If you don't have the dip stick, then where ever you puored the tranny fluid in you may be able to suck it out there too.Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
If you are talking about too much ATF, the fluid will foam and cause damage to the transmission. Make sure you used the correct Type of ATF or you will really mess up!! Do you know most ATF levels are set with the motor running, the transmission warmed up and the shift lever in either Park or Neutral?
You can damage your seals, and eventually the clutches get burned.
If you have a transmission dip stick, you can use a Mighty-Vac available at harbor freight, and at a Auto jobber, with a piece of hose smaller than the diameter of the fill tube (avail at a good hardware store) and suck the excess fluid out. Other wise you may have to drop the pan to drain it out.
Vw states that driving the car 2 miles wil sufficiently warm the transmission to get a proper oil level fill to the ';hot mark';.
To check the fluid level, transmission warn, engine running in park.
If you don't have the dip stick, then where ever you puored the tranny fluid in you may be able to suck it out there too.Too much oil inside the automatic gearbox what will happen except deterioration on the seals?
If you are talking about too much ATF, the fluid will foam and cause damage to the transmission. Make sure you used the correct Type of ATF or you will really mess up!! Do you know most ATF levels are set with the motor running, the transmission warmed up and the shift lever in either Park or Neutral?
SINCE MY VOLVO DOES NOT HAVE A PCV VALVE WHAT ELSE IS CAUSING MY FRONT CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS TO LEAK?
ITS A 1995 VOLVO 960 2.9L V6 WAGON.
SINCE MY VOLVO DOES NOT HAVE A PCV VALVE WHAT ELSE IS CAUSING MY FRONT CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS TO LEAK?
that damn oil leak, its common in the 960's ,,,they kinda fixed it in the s90 series. on my 2nd 960 now (a 95 %26amp; 96) could be the cam-shaft cover seal-- there is no seal/gasket might have to use a strong sealant--- could be the oil pan gasket ---could be the oil cap cover---could be the oil cooler---could be the cam-shaft cover screws,,, U need to clean the entire engine put in a leak finder solution which will be a different color and when it leaks U can see exactly where it is coming from and figure how to fix it,,,oh yah i still have parts the whole car (no eng.) need something???heheheSINCE MY VOLVO DOES NOT HAVE A PCV VALVE WHAT ELSE IS CAUSING MY FRONT CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS TO LEAK?
That particular vehicle may not have an actual PCV valve, but it should, by design, have some sort of crankcase ventilation system, which could have a blocked or restricted passage/ orifice somewheres. If yours is a high mileage vehicle, excessive blow-by from worn piston rings will also cause excessive pressure, and cause seals to leak, along with simple old age. The seals become hard and brittle from heat, and in some cases can actually wear a fine groove in the crank/ camshaft where they are supposed to seal ( which may be why even the new seals still leak). If yours is also a turbo engine, some of the pressure from the intake manifold will find it's way into the valve cover/ camshaft area by way of the valve guides.. pushing oil out through the weakened seals. In rare cases, worn camshaft bearings can cause the seals to become elongated/ stretched, which will cause a new seal to leak within a matter of a few thousand miles.
There is also a vacuum hose that attaches to the flame trap housing, make sure this hose is clear, as well as the nipple that it attaches to. There is what they call an oil trap housing under the intake manifold, this can plug up and cause high crankcase pressure too.
The ideal way to address difficult oil leaks is to add a florescent dye to the oil, drive the vehicle for a few miles and then use a black light and this will react (turns bright yellow) with the dye in the oil and you will see where the oil leak is originating from.
Bret
RepairPal.com
Your car has PCV system but Volvo calls it a Flame trap.It is located on the air intake hose and has a plastic screen inside of the housing.Before we continue i need to clarify if the seals u replaced located at the front of engine or is it the rear cam plug and not the front seal behind the cam gear.
Worn seals if you're lucky. Worn cam bearings if you're NOT lucky (maybe)
Age of the vehicle
SINCE MY VOLVO DOES NOT HAVE A PCV VALVE WHAT ELSE IS CAUSING MY FRONT CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS TO LEAK?
that damn oil leak, its common in the 960's ,,,they kinda fixed it in the s90 series. on my 2nd 960 now (a 95 %26amp; 96) could be the cam-shaft cover seal-- there is no seal/gasket might have to use a strong sealant--- could be the oil pan gasket ---could be the oil cap cover---could be the oil cooler---could be the cam-shaft cover screws,,, U need to clean the entire engine put in a leak finder solution which will be a different color and when it leaks U can see exactly where it is coming from and figure how to fix it,,,oh yah i still have parts the whole car (no eng.) need something???heheheSINCE MY VOLVO DOES NOT HAVE A PCV VALVE WHAT ELSE IS CAUSING MY FRONT CAMSHAFT OIL SEALS TO LEAK?
That particular vehicle may not have an actual PCV valve, but it should, by design, have some sort of crankcase ventilation system, which could have a blocked or restricted passage/ orifice somewheres. If yours is a high mileage vehicle, excessive blow-by from worn piston rings will also cause excessive pressure, and cause seals to leak, along with simple old age. The seals become hard and brittle from heat, and in some cases can actually wear a fine groove in the crank/ camshaft where they are supposed to seal ( which may be why even the new seals still leak). If yours is also a turbo engine, some of the pressure from the intake manifold will find it's way into the valve cover/ camshaft area by way of the valve guides.. pushing oil out through the weakened seals. In rare cases, worn camshaft bearings can cause the seals to become elongated/ stretched, which will cause a new seal to leak within a matter of a few thousand miles.
There is also a vacuum hose that attaches to the flame trap housing, make sure this hose is clear, as well as the nipple that it attaches to. There is what they call an oil trap housing under the intake manifold, this can plug up and cause high crankcase pressure too.
The ideal way to address difficult oil leaks is to add a florescent dye to the oil, drive the vehicle for a few miles and then use a black light and this will react (turns bright yellow) with the dye in the oil and you will see where the oil leak is originating from.
Bret
RepairPal.com
Your car has PCV system but Volvo calls it a Flame trap.It is located on the air intake hose and has a plastic screen inside of the housing.Before we continue i need to clarify if the seals u replaced located at the front of engine or is it the rear cam plug and not the front seal behind the cam gear.
Worn seals if you're lucky. Worn cam bearings if you're NOT lucky (maybe)
Age of the vehicle
Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
I have a 2001 Ford E350 van. My ';Service Engine Soon'; light came on as I was noticing some power loss and engine roughness. I pulled off the freeway within 3 to 5 minutes to find the remaining oil pooling underneath. the entire underside and back side of the van was coated. After getting the repair which included:
Oil pan Gasket - E350 Super Duty, Gas, V10 F7UZ 6710 AA
Thermostat - E350 Super Duty Diesel
Main Bearing Oil Seal/Rear Engine Cover plate -E 350 Super Duty Diesel - Rear F4TZ 6701 A
Then, of course Oil %26amp; Filter
After driving it home after the repair I noticed that at near 50 to 55 MPH there is a little subtle roughness that I'm not accustomed to. I also noticed that same subtle roughness the day BEFORE these seals went out. Maybe I'm just paranoid but is there something I should know about before I go on a long trip tomorrow?Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
If your rings are worn, the exess blowby could have blown out the rear main seal and caused other leaks. 2001-what's your mileage? Have you got an airfilter that works? Any induction leaks? What's your compression like? Are you using oil?
WARNING: A worn diesel will run on sump fume blowby with increased power until the sump is dry-wrecking the engine. There are 2 easy ways to stop a motor in this mode- 1 throw the decompressor, or 2 seal the air intake until it stops-do NOT use your hand!!! NO, I wouldn't drive it anywhere until I knew much more about what's going on. And the mechanic is a fool for not suggesting these scenarios, as they're well known to all competent diesel mechanics.Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
did your mechanic ck the rod and main bearings 4 damage when replacing r/main seal ? after that much oil loss, damage could have accured to the bottom end causing vibration or roughness. cause could have been oil pump relief spring sticking.was the oil pump replaced?
Is it still leaking oil?
use another truck....
It is possible that engine blowby caused the seals to blow out and it may repeat itself in short order. Have the compression and blowby checked.
how low was the oil level in the pan?what it MAY be is you filled the high pressure oil system with air.these engines need a minimum of 500PSI of oil pressure to fire the injectors.the pressure will reach 3000 PSI at wide oppen throttle.now if you got air in this system it will take about a day of driving to get all the air out and get it back to running normal.eyeshadow
Oil pan Gasket - E350 Super Duty, Gas, V10 F7UZ 6710 AA
Thermostat - E350 Super Duty Diesel
Main Bearing Oil Seal/Rear Engine Cover plate -E 350 Super Duty Diesel - Rear F4TZ 6701 A
Then, of course Oil %26amp; Filter
After driving it home after the repair I noticed that at near 50 to 55 MPH there is a little subtle roughness that I'm not accustomed to. I also noticed that same subtle roughness the day BEFORE these seals went out. Maybe I'm just paranoid but is there something I should know about before I go on a long trip tomorrow?Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
If your rings are worn, the exess blowby could have blown out the rear main seal and caused other leaks. 2001-what's your mileage? Have you got an airfilter that works? Any induction leaks? What's your compression like? Are you using oil?
WARNING: A worn diesel will run on sump fume blowby with increased power until the sump is dry-wrecking the engine. There are 2 easy ways to stop a motor in this mode- 1 throw the decompressor, or 2 seal the air intake until it stops-do NOT use your hand!!! NO, I wouldn't drive it anywhere until I knew much more about what's going on. And the mechanic is a fool for not suggesting these scenarios, as they're well known to all competent diesel mechanics.Diesel Mechanics -- On a Ford E350 Diesel is it possible for a situation to blow NEW oil seals/gaskets out?
did your mechanic ck the rod and main bearings 4 damage when replacing r/main seal ? after that much oil loss, damage could have accured to the bottom end causing vibration or roughness. cause could have been oil pump relief spring sticking.was the oil pump replaced?
Is it still leaking oil?
use another truck....
It is possible that engine blowby caused the seals to blow out and it may repeat itself in short order. Have the compression and blowby checked.
how low was the oil level in the pan?what it MAY be is you filled the high pressure oil system with air.these engines need a minimum of 500PSI of oil pressure to fire the injectors.the pressure will reach 3000 PSI at wide oppen throttle.now if you got air in this system it will take about a day of driving to get all the air out and get it back to running normal.
Is there an oil level plug on the gearbox of an Astra 1.3 cdti, or is the whole unit sealed?
I just want to check the oil levelIs there an oil level plug on the gearbox of an Astra 1.3 cdti, or is the whole unit sealed?
if its manual then ther is a level plug on the side of the box next too the drive shaft on the nearside very difficult too get too you just pump the oil in untill the fluid starts pouring back outIs there an oil level plug on the gearbox of an Astra 1.3 cdti, or is the whole unit sealed?
if it's a new car then I think it's a sealed unit, but can be maintained by a competent mechanic, on older cars it was user servicable
Ex Astra owner
if its manual then ther is a level plug on the side of the box next too the drive shaft on the nearside very difficult too get too you just pump the oil in untill the fluid starts pouring back outIs there an oil level plug on the gearbox of an Astra 1.3 cdti, or is the whole unit sealed?
if it's a new car then I think it's a sealed unit, but can be maintained by a competent mechanic, on older cars it was user servicable
Ex Astra owner
If baby Seals contained Oil would George Bush wage a Holy war of terror on them too?
Racer; if...ahem...sorry...
Gamma;
If ';NAVY'; seals contained oil...
.
.
.If baby Seals contained Oil would George Bush wage a Holy war of terror on them too?
If we could squeeze oil out of gamma rays consider it on buddy!If baby Seals contained Oil would George Bush wage a Holy war of terror on them too?
Yes. It's a good thing that Iran doesn't have any oil...
That's what he wants to do with the Alaskan oil fields. Do caribous and grizzly bears contain any oil? They're doomed, too, then.
Shhhhhh...don't give him any ideas!
Yes, probably
No. But using your twisted logic, I know between liberal loudmouths Michael Moore and Rosie O'Donnell we would have enough oil in them to no longer rely on Mideast oil-producing states for our oil and gas supply for an entire millenium.
You libs really need to get off the whole oil thing. It's really old and pathetic. If we were there for the oil, I'd have 6 barrels of it in my backyard by now.
Word just in!
President Bush ok's slaughter of baby seals in pursuit of oil!
When asked about this at a press confrence earlier today the President responded;
';We believe that the Tally-ban are using them to smuggle Weapons of Mass Destruction and if they are, by golly we've got an obligation to protect the rest of the world from those little rascals!';
Inside sources say that the tip-off concerning the use of the baby seals came from a question asked on Yahoo Answers.
More on this story later, back to you Bill........
=))
lol
Most definately. But the baby seals would win. They would pummel him to death with their whiskery snouts.
o theres no doubt about it
probably
You said the ';O'; word. Don't stand near your door, there'll be an army coming from GWB to kick your door in, kill your family, take your riches, then tell you how lucky you are now you are living in a free democratic society.
No...but they would probably get a nice tax cut.
Gamma;
If ';NAVY'; seals contained oil...
.
.
.If baby Seals contained Oil would George Bush wage a Holy war of terror on them too?
If we could squeeze oil out of gamma rays consider it on buddy!If baby Seals contained Oil would George Bush wage a Holy war of terror on them too?
Yes. It's a good thing that Iran doesn't have any oil...
That's what he wants to do with the Alaskan oil fields. Do caribous and grizzly bears contain any oil? They're doomed, too, then.
Shhhhhh...don't give him any ideas!
Yes, probably
No. But using your twisted logic, I know between liberal loudmouths Michael Moore and Rosie O'Donnell we would have enough oil in them to no longer rely on Mideast oil-producing states for our oil and gas supply for an entire millenium.
You libs really need to get off the whole oil thing. It's really old and pathetic. If we were there for the oil, I'd have 6 barrels of it in my backyard by now.
Word just in!
President Bush ok's slaughter of baby seals in pursuit of oil!
When asked about this at a press confrence earlier today the President responded;
';We believe that the Tally-ban are using them to smuggle Weapons of Mass Destruction and if they are, by golly we've got an obligation to protect the rest of the world from those little rascals!';
Inside sources say that the tip-off concerning the use of the baby seals came from a question asked on Yahoo Answers.
More on this story later, back to you Bill........
=))
lol
Most definately. But the baby seals would win. They would pummel him to death with their whiskery snouts.
o theres no doubt about it
probably
You said the ';O'; word. Don't stand near your door, there'll be an army coming from GWB to kick your door in, kill your family, take your riches, then tell you how lucky you are now you are living in a free democratic society.
No...but they would probably get a nice tax cut.
1973 Yamaha RD 350 2 stroke driveshaft oil seals need replacement.?
But the stator needs to come off to get to them. And once I remove the stator and replace the seals, how can I press the stator back onto the shaft?1973 Yamaha RD 350 2 stroke driveshaft oil seals need replacement.?
The tool threads into the ROTOR.
It bottoms out on the end of the Crank.
Get the Tool Tight into the rotor,,
then whack the end of the tool sharply as if to drive it further into the crank.
Rotor will just pop off the crank's taper.
To Reinstall:
The rotor will align itself on the crank's taper,,,oriented by the key/keyway in correct position.
Simply Tightening the center Bolt is all that's needed to seat it.
(15~17ft/lbs torque on the center bolt)
*Note,,No need to apply anything to glue the bearings in place.
The factory locating pins work better than anything that oozes out of a tube
......................................鈥?br>
Edit:
Yep,,sounds like you have the more common 27mm L/H threaded puller.
The one you Need is 20mm x 1.5 thread R/H thread.
It's Usually one of the cheaper Pullers to buy,,
$10~12-ish
Yamaha Shop will have them in stock.
Honda Shop Should,same Size tool was used on
old CB750's,,Elsinores and MT250 Enduros,,
XL250's.
If you can happen to find locally just a plain bolt that size ,,it'll work.
Odd size bolt,,,dont hold your breath looking for one around town.
Hondas used just a ';solid bolt'; style puller
Yamaha style is HOLLOW-center,,for use on early YZ's which have a thread protruding from crank,,thru the rotor.
So the puller must fit Over all that.
Your RD has a flat ended crank with internal threads---no protruding stud.
Which is same as Honda Used,,,and why ya can use the 20mm x 1.5 ';Honda'; type plain,solid bolt Puller.
A Few common Kawasakis %26amp; Suzukis also use the same puller.
I know probably EVERY trick in the book to get the Rotor Off without a Proper Tool.
But I have Never Mastered being able to Absolutely Gaurantee 100% Reliable Damage Free Removal.
The Rotors are obsolete parts now,,,though ya can buy them Used on Ebay for Cheap.
But still not as cheap as the correct puller.
In Simple terms,,Get the right puller.
It makes life much simpler.
......................................鈥?br>
Here's some on Ebay which list the applications they fit.
You can use that info to shop around locally
Ebay Item number: 110394974857
http://www.siriusconinc.com/ebayimages/3鈥?/a>
Item number: 310145446598
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS鈥?/a>
It's a common puller,,,what's unique is that for RD350's,,Either style works fine.
Solid or Hollow
Hope that helps1973 Yamaha RD 350 2 stroke driveshaft oil seals need replacement.?
You must remove the Point Cam which sticks out of the Rotor,it Seems built in/1piece-- but its separate.
Item #26
http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Yamaha/YA4271_14.gif
Remove Bolt#27 leave it In Place but withdrawn Half its length,tap Bolt left%26amp;right.
PointsCam will then come off Report Abuse
that bike is chain drive, doesn't have a drive shaft
are you talking about the front crankshaft seals?
you have to split the case to replace the seals, they only come out from the inside.
if those seals are leaking then you have worn mains, bearings
that's no job for a novice, when you spit the case the transmission gears come out too
edit; the threaded tool removes the flywheel that covers the stator
replace the bearings anyhow, all that trouble of taking it apart, you don't want to take it apart again to replace them, and the bearings are cheap anyhow, and apply a small amount of bearing mount, its like Locktite that holds the outside of the bearing to the case, (you don't want the bearings spinning inside the case) HD has that problem when people use synthetic oil
there's a special threaded tool to remove the stator, its cheap, I suggest buy one, or you can do it the hillbilly way with a gear puller and a big hammer, but you may damage it
edit #2 the threated tool has outside threads that screw into the flywheel as it screws in at the same time the center pushes on the crankshaft and forces the flywheel off
The stator is the STATIONARY part that is usually found attached to the outter engine case. I think you mean the ROTOR (the rotating part attached to the end of the crank). It is simple to remove with the the right type of tool-either buy the Yamaha rotor puller, or make one yourself with an old slide hammer and an appropriately threaded bolt-witht he head shaved down to fit into the end of the slide hammer.
are there holes on the stater to attach a gear puller or you can hook the edge on 3 spots make sure to remove nut or bolt in center not sure of set up but on older stuff with contacts on the inside of the flywheel you use a gear puller thn use nut to tighten it back up when done hope it helps let me know
Your gonna need to join the RD 350 forum for that answer. To rare of a bike for anyone here to know.
But we'll see.
The tool threads into the ROTOR.
It bottoms out on the end of the Crank.
Get the Tool Tight into the rotor,,
then whack the end of the tool sharply as if to drive it further into the crank.
Rotor will just pop off the crank's taper.
To Reinstall:
The rotor will align itself on the crank's taper,,,oriented by the key/keyway in correct position.
Simply Tightening the center Bolt is all that's needed to seat it.
(15~17ft/lbs torque on the center bolt)
*Note,,No need to apply anything to glue the bearings in place.
The factory locating pins work better than anything that oozes out of a tube
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Edit:
Yep,,sounds like you have the more common 27mm L/H threaded puller.
The one you Need is 20mm x 1.5 thread R/H thread.
It's Usually one of the cheaper Pullers to buy,,
$10~12-ish
Yamaha Shop will have them in stock.
Honda Shop Should,same Size tool was used on
old CB750's,,Elsinores and MT250 Enduros,,
XL250's.
If you can happen to find locally just a plain bolt that size ,,it'll work.
Odd size bolt,,,dont hold your breath looking for one around town.
Hondas used just a ';solid bolt'; style puller
Yamaha style is HOLLOW-center,,for use on early YZ's which have a thread protruding from crank,,thru the rotor.
So the puller must fit Over all that.
Your RD has a flat ended crank with internal threads---no protruding stud.
Which is same as Honda Used,,,and why ya can use the 20mm x 1.5 ';Honda'; type plain,solid bolt Puller.
A Few common Kawasakis %26amp; Suzukis also use the same puller.
I know probably EVERY trick in the book to get the Rotor Off without a Proper Tool.
But I have Never Mastered being able to Absolutely Gaurantee 100% Reliable Damage Free Removal.
The Rotors are obsolete parts now,,,though ya can buy them Used on Ebay for Cheap.
But still not as cheap as the correct puller.
In Simple terms,,Get the right puller.
It makes life much simpler.
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Here's some on Ebay which list the applications they fit.
You can use that info to shop around locally
Ebay Item number: 110394974857
http://www.siriusconinc.com/ebayimages/3鈥?/a>
Item number: 310145446598
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS鈥?/a>
It's a common puller,,,what's unique is that for RD350's,,Either style works fine.
Solid or Hollow
Hope that helps1973 Yamaha RD 350 2 stroke driveshaft oil seals need replacement.?
You must remove the Point Cam which sticks out of the Rotor,it Seems built in/1piece-- but its separate.
Item #26
http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Yamaha/YA4271_14.gif
Remove Bolt#27 leave it In Place but withdrawn Half its length,tap Bolt left%26amp;right.
PointsCam will then come off Report Abuse
that bike is chain drive, doesn't have a drive shaft
are you talking about the front crankshaft seals?
you have to split the case to replace the seals, they only come out from the inside.
if those seals are leaking then you have worn mains, bearings
that's no job for a novice, when you spit the case the transmission gears come out too
edit; the threaded tool removes the flywheel that covers the stator
replace the bearings anyhow, all that trouble of taking it apart, you don't want to take it apart again to replace them, and the bearings are cheap anyhow, and apply a small amount of bearing mount, its like Locktite that holds the outside of the bearing to the case, (you don't want the bearings spinning inside the case) HD has that problem when people use synthetic oil
there's a special threaded tool to remove the stator, its cheap, I suggest buy one, or you can do it the hillbilly way with a gear puller and a big hammer, but you may damage it
edit #2 the threated tool has outside threads that screw into the flywheel as it screws in at the same time the center pushes on the crankshaft and forces the flywheel off
The stator is the STATIONARY part that is usually found attached to the outter engine case. I think you mean the ROTOR (the rotating part attached to the end of the crank). It is simple to remove with the the right type of tool-either buy the Yamaha rotor puller, or make one yourself with an old slide hammer and an appropriately threaded bolt-witht he head shaved down to fit into the end of the slide hammer.
are there holes on the stater to attach a gear puller or you can hook the edge on 3 spots make sure to remove nut or bolt in center not sure of set up but on older stuff with contacts on the inside of the flywheel you use a gear puller thn use nut to tighten it back up when done hope it helps let me know
Your gonna need to join the RD 350 forum for that answer. To rare of a bike for anyone here to know.
But we'll see.
Johnson propellor shaft oil seals?
I'm trying to renew the prop shaft oil seals on a 1991 Johnson 50 (part No. 0321467).
I've stripped off the prop, thrust washer and casing.
How do I get the oil seals out?
One helpful techie said I need a puller, but there doesn't seem to be anything to attach it to!
Any help appreciated.Johnson propellor shaft oil seals?
after the retaining rings are removed, some model can be grasped firmly by hand and pulled...if there are bolt holes you will need a pullerJohnson propellor shaft oil seals?
braze a screw onto a old screwdriver then screw into seal and should be able to pull it out
all the best
get a mechanic to sort that out
Your helpful techie is correct, get a manual and the correct tools before you burn up the gear box.
I've stripped off the prop, thrust washer and casing.
How do I get the oil seals out?
One helpful techie said I need a puller, but there doesn't seem to be anything to attach it to!
Any help appreciated.Johnson propellor shaft oil seals?
after the retaining rings are removed, some model can be grasped firmly by hand and pulled...if there are bolt holes you will need a pullerJohnson propellor shaft oil seals?
braze a screw onto a old screwdriver then screw into seal and should be able to pull it out
all the best
get a mechanic to sort that out
Your helpful techie is correct, get a manual and the correct tools before you burn up the gear box.
Where can I find GACO Make Oil Seals / U Seals / V Seals in Pune/India?
DE350
DI287Where can I find GACO Make Oil Seals / U Seals / V Seals in Pune/India?
please see the yellow pages. these are quite common
DI287Where can I find GACO Make Oil Seals / U Seals / V Seals in Pune/India?
please see the yellow pages. these are quite common
How many oil seals are totally used in manufacturing a car?
i want to know how many oil seals are used and price of the most commonly used seals as i was doing a researchHow many oil seals are totally used in manufacturing a car?
Well for a typical japanese engine they mostly have 2 for the cam and then 2 for the crankshaft as one for the pulley side and then one for the transmission side and they heaps for an automatic transmission but i guess only 3 for a manual transmission (FWD) i guess 2 for a RWD vehicleHow many oil seals are totally used in manufacturing a car?
There are MANY seals used. The trans alone has the most; I'd estimate about 20 in an entire car. But each car is different.eyeshadow
Well for a typical japanese engine they mostly have 2 for the cam and then 2 for the crankshaft as one for the pulley side and then one for the transmission side and they heaps for an automatic transmission but i guess only 3 for a manual transmission (FWD) i guess 2 for a RWD vehicleHow many oil seals are totally used in manufacturing a car?
There are MANY seals used. The trans alone has the most; I'd estimate about 20 in an entire car. But each car is different.
I need new Valve Stem Oil Seals!!!?
My car smokes when i'm sitting in traffic or something like that for a while. Then when i drive the smoke goes away. Its a light blue color.I was told i need new Oil Seals and the heads woud have to be taken off to complete the job-which it only makes more since to rebuiled the engine. Should I?? I have a 97 Eclipse with 180k miles on it or is it time for a new car?? Is this a repair that is urgent or gets worse??? HELP.I need new Valve Stem Oil Seals!!!?
You may need new oil seals, true, but,when a engine shows signs of lite blue smoke, as, in your case, I would think, that, it would be more like the valve guides, to me. True, the heads will have to be taken off, to complete this job, but, with 180k miles on it, you should probably have the entire engine rebuilt. Cause, after you factor in all the little things, that need to be done, you might just as well rebuild the entire engine. Then, you know, the engine, is good. You could just replace the oil seals, but, you would eventually end up doing other things, to the engine, as well. So, I would agree with you... It makes more sense, to, rebuild the whole engine. You'll save money, in the long run, anyhow. As far as this being a repair, that, is urgent, or gets worse, as long as you aren't burning a whole bunch of oil, in a short time period, It can wait, till, you have the time, to have it looked into. It will eventually get worse, though. But, that should take quite a while, though. Unless, you start having to add lots of oil, on a regular basis, then, I would hae it looked at, as soon as possible. But, as long as it stays the way it is, I wouldn't worry too much about it, for the time being. Just keep a watchful eye out, for changing conditions, in your engine... Like, if you notice more blue smoke, or, if, you have to add more oil, than, what you normally have to. As far as being time for a new car, I wouldn't consider this, just yet. Yours has plenty of miles in it, yet.I need new Valve Stem Oil Seals!!!?
usually valve seals makes the car smoke just in the morning, until the oil gets burnt off the valves. before you start tearing the engine, check 1 thing. take the valve pans off and see if the oil drain holes are opened all the way down, if they are clogged, take a stiff wire and run down the drain holes. you can tell once the pans are off, it will look like a river of oil under the valve pans., but if it turns out to be valve seals, you dont have to pull the heads. all you need is a air compressor, valve spring compressor and a new set of seals, they are probably the umbrella type. take the plugs out, take the valve pans off, screw the hose end into the plug hole, run the compressor up to about 50 lbs. and use the spring compressor to compress the valve spring, take the keepers out and the spring, and theres the oil seal.
Yeah sounds like its time for a new car. If you wanna keep it running for a while until its no longer driveable the use the oil treatments like the others have suggested, but IMO its not worth a major engine overhaul. If you were just in love with the car and really wanted to keep it, you might consider buying a rebuilt engine and having it swapped out. But that is costly and you will still have a newish engine in a 11 year old car so you would have to worry about all the other components as well. Good luck!
get a new car, there are about a million oil seals on your car, and the ones you are talking about happens to be the hardest one the changes. The seal is called ';head gasket seal'; and inoder to get to it they need to take off the vavle covers which is easy and then the heads which is hard. you car has too many mile to start a major engine project, b/c like all old cars once one thing goes they all start to go.
In my opinion it's time for a new car. Make sure you do regularly required maintenance on the new car. Remember, any used car could have received poor maintenance, so demand maintenance records if you buy a used car. Note that if your transmission has never been replaced, it is due to fail very soon. You may also fail the emissions testing in your locality, so think about a Toyota replacement.
The smoke will get worse over time but you can still drive it like that. Put a can of CD2 (autozone or any parts store) in, that might band aid it a little. I would not rebuild the engine, I would just get a new car if it were me. Good luck.
you do not need to take the heads off a car to replace the valve stem oil seals.
Most mechanics do it using a comtressed air machine,,a 10 dollar spark plug hole attachment and a few wrenches.
Go find another mechanic
You don't have to take the heads off to change the seals.
Use straight synthetic oil. That's what we put in our resale smoking cars.
You may need new oil seals, true, but,when a engine shows signs of lite blue smoke, as, in your case, I would think, that, it would be more like the valve guides, to me. True, the heads will have to be taken off, to complete this job, but, with 180k miles on it, you should probably have the entire engine rebuilt. Cause, after you factor in all the little things, that need to be done, you might just as well rebuild the entire engine. Then, you know, the engine, is good. You could just replace the oil seals, but, you would eventually end up doing other things, to the engine, as well. So, I would agree with you... It makes more sense, to, rebuild the whole engine. You'll save money, in the long run, anyhow. As far as this being a repair, that, is urgent, or gets worse, as long as you aren't burning a whole bunch of oil, in a short time period, It can wait, till, you have the time, to have it looked into. It will eventually get worse, though. But, that should take quite a while, though. Unless, you start having to add lots of oil, on a regular basis, then, I would hae it looked at, as soon as possible. But, as long as it stays the way it is, I wouldn't worry too much about it, for the time being. Just keep a watchful eye out, for changing conditions, in your engine... Like, if you notice more blue smoke, or, if, you have to add more oil, than, what you normally have to. As far as being time for a new car, I wouldn't consider this, just yet. Yours has plenty of miles in it, yet.I need new Valve Stem Oil Seals!!!?
usually valve seals makes the car smoke just in the morning, until the oil gets burnt off the valves. before you start tearing the engine, check 1 thing. take the valve pans off and see if the oil drain holes are opened all the way down, if they are clogged, take a stiff wire and run down the drain holes. you can tell once the pans are off, it will look like a river of oil under the valve pans., but if it turns out to be valve seals, you dont have to pull the heads. all you need is a air compressor, valve spring compressor and a new set of seals, they are probably the umbrella type. take the plugs out, take the valve pans off, screw the hose end into the plug hole, run the compressor up to about 50 lbs. and use the spring compressor to compress the valve spring, take the keepers out and the spring, and theres the oil seal.
Yeah sounds like its time for a new car. If you wanna keep it running for a while until its no longer driveable the use the oil treatments like the others have suggested, but IMO its not worth a major engine overhaul. If you were just in love with the car and really wanted to keep it, you might consider buying a rebuilt engine and having it swapped out. But that is costly and you will still have a newish engine in a 11 year old car so you would have to worry about all the other components as well. Good luck!
get a new car, there are about a million oil seals on your car, and the ones you are talking about happens to be the hardest one the changes. The seal is called ';head gasket seal'; and inoder to get to it they need to take off the vavle covers which is easy and then the heads which is hard. you car has too many mile to start a major engine project, b/c like all old cars once one thing goes they all start to go.
In my opinion it's time for a new car. Make sure you do regularly required maintenance on the new car. Remember, any used car could have received poor maintenance, so demand maintenance records if you buy a used car. Note that if your transmission has never been replaced, it is due to fail very soon. You may also fail the emissions testing in your locality, so think about a Toyota replacement.
The smoke will get worse over time but you can still drive it like that. Put a can of CD2 (autozone or any parts store) in, that might band aid it a little. I would not rebuild the engine, I would just get a new car if it were me. Good luck.
you do not need to take the heads off a car to replace the valve stem oil seals.
Most mechanics do it using a comtressed air machine,,a 10 dollar spark plug hole attachment and a few wrenches.
Go find another mechanic
You don't have to take the heads off to change the seals.
Use straight synthetic oil. That's what we put in our resale smoking cars.
What is the best oil additive for bad valve seals?
Just a little smoke.
Well the thing is due for a rebuild but until then,
you can run the car then while HOT pour in stp oil treatment, that is about the only thing that MAY help. But on valves and rings leaking there is no for sure remedyWhat is the best oil additive for bad valve seals?
Once upon a time I used a quart of Motor Honey, worked great, I don't like STP.
Well the thing is due for a rebuild but until then,
you can run the car then while HOT pour in stp oil treatment, that is about the only thing that MAY help. But on valves and rings leaking there is no for sure remedyWhat is the best oil additive for bad valve seals?
Once upon a time I used a quart of Motor Honey, worked great, I don't like STP.
If you paint with oils, how to do treat the canvas first and seal the painting when finished?
all streched canvases, or canvas boards are sold pre-primed for oil and acrylic painting. but if you are making your own canvas, all you have to do is apply 2-3 thin coats of acrylic gesso. another method of priming the canvas is to use oil primer. this method requires a coat of size, or thinned rabbit skin glue, before applying the oil primer. oil primer takes 3-5 days to dry, so it is much less popular.
for varnishing oil paintings, you need to wait A MINIMUM of 6 to 12 months for moderately THIN oil paintings. for thick impasto paintings, up to 2 years needs to pass before applying varnish. applicating varnish before the designated period of time will result in the cracking and possibly peeling of the paint. as for what varnish to use, i reccommend modern artist gloss or matt varnish made by winsor%26amp;newton. Unlike the traditional ketone and damnar varnishes, modern varnishes DO NOT darken with age and can maintain the vivid color of oil paint for a much, much longer period than the old traditional varnishes. plus, modern varnishes are much less toxic and stroong than damnar varnish which requires very strong turpentine to thin and remove from the painting.
hope this helpsIf you paint with oils, how to do treat the canvas first and seal the painting when finished?
If you buy pre stretched canvas it probably already has a couple coats of gesso on it. If you are stretching bare canvas, give it a couple of coats of gesso yourself. After the painting has dried six months to a year, give it a coat or two of damar varnish.If you paint with oils, how to do treat the canvas first and seal the painting when finished?
you can apply gesso to canvas before painting,
http://www.islandblue.com/store/category…
and optional to use brush on or spray on sealant for oils,
http://www.hofcraft.com/paintingaccessor…
..
for varnishing oil paintings, you need to wait A MINIMUM of 6 to 12 months for moderately THIN oil paintings. for thick impasto paintings, up to 2 years needs to pass before applying varnish. applicating varnish before the designated period of time will result in the cracking and possibly peeling of the paint. as for what varnish to use, i reccommend modern artist gloss or matt varnish made by winsor%26amp;newton. Unlike the traditional ketone and damnar varnishes, modern varnishes DO NOT darken with age and can maintain the vivid color of oil paint for a much, much longer period than the old traditional varnishes. plus, modern varnishes are much less toxic and stroong than damnar varnish which requires very strong turpentine to thin and remove from the painting.
hope this helpsIf you paint with oils, how to do treat the canvas first and seal the painting when finished?
If you buy pre stretched canvas it probably already has a couple coats of gesso on it. If you are stretching bare canvas, give it a couple of coats of gesso yourself. After the painting has dried six months to a year, give it a coat or two of damar varnish.If you paint with oils, how to do treat the canvas first and seal the painting when finished?
you can apply gesso to canvas before painting,
http://www.islandblue.com/store/category…
and optional to use brush on or spray on sealant for oils,
http://www.hofcraft.com/paintingaccessor…
..
Motorbike fork oil seals?
where can i buy cheap fork oil seals for a peugeot trekker 100cc t regMotorbike fork oil seals?
Why cheap?Motorbike fork oil seals?
I'd highly recommend that you don't buy cheap seals. If ya can't afford quality ones, pull the seal covers up the forks a couple inches %26amp; lay a strip of cloth around' er, then push the rubber cover back down. Remember to add a l'il oil now %26amp; then. This should get you by until you can save up the $10 that good seals will cost ya. =^ )
Why cheap?Motorbike fork oil seals?
I'd highly recommend that you don't buy cheap seals. If ya can't afford quality ones, pull the seal covers up the forks a couple inches %26amp; lay a strip of cloth around' er, then push the rubber cover back down. Remember to add a l'il oil now %26amp; then. This should get you by until you can save up the $10 that good seals will cost ya. =^ )
WHAT CAUSES THE OIL SEALS TO LEAK AFTER CHANGING THEM TWICE? THEY ARE AFTERMARKETS.I GUESS ITS DEALER TIME?
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NO鈥?/a>WHAT CAUSES THE OIL SEALS TO LEAK AFTER CHANGING THEM TWICE? THEY ARE AFTERMARKETS.I GUESS ITS DEALER TIME?
it doesn't have anything to do with after market seals their as good if not better than the originals,its usually in the installation of them,if there's wear on the part that your installing them on then they wont seal off,like a crank seal the wont seal if there's a groove cut in the crank from an old seal,i have ran across this several times before,its not always the part you buy but the part your putting it on thats bad,good luck.WHAT CAUSES THE OIL SEALS TO LEAK AFTER CHANGING THEM TWICE? THEY ARE AFTERMARKETS.I GUESS ITS DEALER TIME?
your welcome, Report Abuse
If you installed them correctly, worn cam bearings or worn groove in the cam. If you installed them correctly, it's dealer time.
it doesn't have anything to do with after market seals their as good if not better than the originals,its usually in the installation of them,if there's wear on the part that your installing them on then they wont seal off,like a crank seal the wont seal if there's a groove cut in the crank from an old seal,i have ran across this several times before,its not always the part you buy but the part your putting it on thats bad,good luck.WHAT CAUSES THE OIL SEALS TO LEAK AFTER CHANGING THEM TWICE? THEY ARE AFTERMARKETS.I GUESS ITS DEALER TIME?
your welcome, Report Abuse
If you installed them correctly, worn cam bearings or worn groove in the cam. If you installed them correctly, it's dealer time.
How long will artists oil paints keep sealed in 37ml tubes?
I have some oils in lead 37ml tubes from 20+ years that are still wet and usable, however I recommend buying new tubes (they sell empty ones at art stores like utrecht) and transferring the paint if you have old soft lead paints.How long will artists oil paints keep sealed in 37ml tubes?
Until the next ice age, and beyond. Actually I don't really know that for sure, but being oil in a sealed light-proof container, I can't imagine by what means it would degrade.How long will artists oil paints keep sealed in 37ml tubes?
Very long as long as you keep them tightly closed and don't store them in extreme temperatures(don't let them freeze or boil). Which means don't store them in your car or garage, keep them in room temperature. Also oil paints should not be reinstituted after they have dried.
longer than U !
i have some oils in large tubes that have lasted me ten years so far.
as long as you keep the tubes very well closed andf keep them in a dry, cool and dark place, could last longer than ther valid before date.makeup tips
Until the next ice age, and beyond. Actually I don't really know that for sure, but being oil in a sealed light-proof container, I can't imagine by what means it would degrade.How long will artists oil paints keep sealed in 37ml tubes?
Very long as long as you keep them tightly closed and don't store them in extreme temperatures(don't let them freeze or boil). Which means don't store them in your car or garage, keep them in room temperature. Also oil paints should not be reinstituted after they have dried.
longer than U !
i have some oils in large tubes that have lasted me ten years so far.
as long as you keep the tubes very well closed andf keep them in a dry, cool and dark place, could last longer than ther valid before date.
My engine is leaking oil somehow onto the sparkplugs. any ideas on how to stop it? i thought maybe the seals..
they said i needed to rebuild the engine at the shop but i thought there might be something else i could do for cheaperMy engine is leaking oil somehow onto the sparkplugs. any ideas on how to stop it? i thought maybe the seals..
Do you mean leaking oil on TOP of the plugs, outside the engine? or INSIDE, on the plug's firing electrode?
Valve cover gaskets do NOT prevent oil on the firing electrodes inside the engine.
Oily looking spark plugs may be due to piston rings that are worn.
Have you done a compression test? A leak down test? Do you hear broken piston rings tapping? How many miles on your engine? What engine? what valves? overhead?
Put your car next to the computer and start it up so we can hear it please.....My engine is leaking oil somehow onto the sparkplugs. any ideas on how to stop it? i thought maybe the seals..
if the engine is leaking oil onto the spark plugs the problem is likely the valve cover gaskets. easy fix on most vehicles. are there other problems with the engine such as burning oil, knocking ect that would need a rebuild? maybe you should seek a 2nd opinion if not
this is no fix, but you can try installing hotter spark plugs. might help to burn the oil. Depends how much there is. if you can do it yourself, just ask for hotter plugs at the parts store. plugs are cheap %26amp; easy to replace in 4 cyl cars.
when that doesn't work, ask at another garage.
Could be the oil seals on the valves but, is it burning oil all the time? How much compression have you lost? If it's the ';Oil Rings'; on the positions, yeah, rebuild is the only answer. Sorry.
You just need to have the valve cover gasket changed out. In fact you could do it yourself. It's not hard.
There are spark plug tube seals down underneath the valve cover. It keeps the oil from getting in on the spark plugs. Over time these get hard from the heat. Then they let oil in onto your spark plugs. Sometimes you can hear the plug wires go squeesh when you pull them up there is so much oil it there.
Change the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs. You may also need a set of wires if there is a lot of oil on them too.
Oil draws spark away from your plugs.
You should pay between 100 to 150 for the valve cover and the plugs including the labor. A good set of wires (from Carquest - Prestolites) should be around 90 bucks.
You don't need to rebuild the engine. They will keep the car a week change the valve cover and charge you $3000.
So either they are ripping you off or they don't know Hondas
Some answers here sound like they think you are talking about the electrodes down in the cylinder. If they are black that is an internal problem. However it does sound to me like you are talking about the portion of the plug outside the actual combustion chamber. Oil on the plugs will cause them to not spark properly then you get detonation which may be the ';rattle'; you are hearing.
Also when is the last time the timing belt was changed?
It could be the seals on the valve guides. I am not sure what Honda uses. In the old days GM used rubber seals. If these were bad, oil would run down past the valves into the combustion chamber. No doubt someone out there knows more about how Honda has engineered this engine than I do. From my experience, I would check the compression on the engine. Then put about one teaspoon of motor oil down the spark plug hole and check the compression again. If it is considerably higher, then your rings are bad. Otherwise it may be the valve guide seals which is a much easier/less expensive repair.
I sounds like it is worn out!
The valves in the cylinder head could be worn out.
It does not sound like you are going to get a cheap quick fix to this problem!
The engine is burning oil, that is why the spark plugs are getting covered.
Putting the different oils and additives are not going to help!
Depends on what car you have which you didn't state. You may only need a new valve cover gasket.
With that many miles, You're rings are probably worn bad, and need an overhaul. The shaking is caused by warped rotors (probably the front but could be front and rear too). The carbon build up on the plugs is caused by worn valve seals. And the oil in the plug holes is caused by valve cover oil seals needing replaced.
Replace the valve cover gasket with the 4 doughnut gaskets. take valve cover off and pull old gaskets off,clean real good with carb/choke, after it clean and dry apply a small amount of black gasket maker were the 4 seal are placed then place doughnut gasket in there places. the gasket maker will help seal better.
The intake/exhaust valves in the head have weak seals. You should go ahead and rebuild the engine anyway. 263+ thousand miles. That car has been a real soldier. Most American cars start having this problem around 120+ thousand.
The reason it happens is most often because your car overheated a few times and the seals get weak as they get old. Normal wear and tear will do it too, though.
Those additives are bogus. They only help temporarily, like for maybe ten miles. If you're have to put additives in your oil, your engine is on it's very last legs.
Get your motor rebuilt. It's money well spent.
Good luck
REPLACE THE VALVE COVER GASKET.
Do you mean leaking oil on TOP of the plugs, outside the engine? or INSIDE, on the plug's firing electrode?
Valve cover gaskets do NOT prevent oil on the firing electrodes inside the engine.
Oily looking spark plugs may be due to piston rings that are worn.
Have you done a compression test? A leak down test? Do you hear broken piston rings tapping? How many miles on your engine? What engine? what valves? overhead?
Put your car next to the computer and start it up so we can hear it please.....My engine is leaking oil somehow onto the sparkplugs. any ideas on how to stop it? i thought maybe the seals..
if the engine is leaking oil onto the spark plugs the problem is likely the valve cover gaskets. easy fix on most vehicles. are there other problems with the engine such as burning oil, knocking ect that would need a rebuild? maybe you should seek a 2nd opinion if not
this is no fix, but you can try installing hotter spark plugs. might help to burn the oil. Depends how much there is. if you can do it yourself, just ask for hotter plugs at the parts store. plugs are cheap %26amp; easy to replace in 4 cyl cars.
when that doesn't work, ask at another garage.
Could be the oil seals on the valves but, is it burning oil all the time? How much compression have you lost? If it's the ';Oil Rings'; on the positions, yeah, rebuild is the only answer. Sorry.
You just need to have the valve cover gasket changed out. In fact you could do it yourself. It's not hard.
There are spark plug tube seals down underneath the valve cover. It keeps the oil from getting in on the spark plugs. Over time these get hard from the heat. Then they let oil in onto your spark plugs. Sometimes you can hear the plug wires go squeesh when you pull them up there is so much oil it there.
Change the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs. You may also need a set of wires if there is a lot of oil on them too.
Oil draws spark away from your plugs.
You should pay between 100 to 150 for the valve cover and the plugs including the labor. A good set of wires (from Carquest - Prestolites) should be around 90 bucks.
You don't need to rebuild the engine. They will keep the car a week change the valve cover and charge you $3000.
So either they are ripping you off or they don't know Hondas
Some answers here sound like they think you are talking about the electrodes down in the cylinder. If they are black that is an internal problem. However it does sound to me like you are talking about the portion of the plug outside the actual combustion chamber. Oil on the plugs will cause them to not spark properly then you get detonation which may be the ';rattle'; you are hearing.
Also when is the last time the timing belt was changed?
It could be the seals on the valve guides. I am not sure what Honda uses. In the old days GM used rubber seals. If these were bad, oil would run down past the valves into the combustion chamber. No doubt someone out there knows more about how Honda has engineered this engine than I do. From my experience, I would check the compression on the engine. Then put about one teaspoon of motor oil down the spark plug hole and check the compression again. If it is considerably higher, then your rings are bad. Otherwise it may be the valve guide seals which is a much easier/less expensive repair.
I sounds like it is worn out!
The valves in the cylinder head could be worn out.
It does not sound like you are going to get a cheap quick fix to this problem!
The engine is burning oil, that is why the spark plugs are getting covered.
Putting the different oils and additives are not going to help!
Depends on what car you have which you didn't state. You may only need a new valve cover gasket.
With that many miles, You're rings are probably worn bad, and need an overhaul. The shaking is caused by warped rotors (probably the front but could be front and rear too). The carbon build up on the plugs is caused by worn valve seals. And the oil in the plug holes is caused by valve cover oil seals needing replaced.
Replace the valve cover gasket with the 4 doughnut gaskets. take valve cover off and pull old gaskets off,clean real good with carb/choke, after it clean and dry apply a small amount of black gasket maker were the 4 seal are placed then place doughnut gasket in there places. the gasket maker will help seal better.
The intake/exhaust valves in the head have weak seals. You should go ahead and rebuild the engine anyway. 263+ thousand miles. That car has been a real soldier. Most American cars start having this problem around 120+ thousand.
The reason it happens is most often because your car overheated a few times and the seals get weak as they get old. Normal wear and tear will do it too, though.
Those additives are bogus. They only help temporarily, like for maybe ten miles. If you're have to put additives in your oil, your engine is on it's very last legs.
Get your motor rebuilt. It's money well spent.
Good luck
REPLACE THE VALVE COVER GASKET.
Drive shaft oil seals?
Is it true that the original seals fitted by the manufacturer are different to those used to replacement seals?
My previous garage told me he changed them. My new garage say he didn't because the originals are still in and they are different to replacements.Drive shaft oil seals?
Yes the after market one are a little different but the sizes are the same so you wont leak oil,the original ones will have makings one them and if they were replaced then they should not have to be replaced again so soon.Drive shaft oil seals?
The main way to tell the difference is the part number stamped on the seal and sometimes the color. If you can get the number off the seal you can call a parts store like advance and they can cross reference the part number and tell you if its original or not. Most mechanic will not get replacement parts from the dealer, so if it is the original part number then you know he didn't change it.
well its possible to buy parts from dealer
which wil be originals manufacturers parts
was they leaking was they not leaking then he replace them cant say he didnt can say they look old or not and can guess
originals manufacturers parts
and after market parts many time made by same company just one has pass a test from company to be good car companie dont make many of their own parts they buy them from companies who make them for them what makes them originals is they come from factory which you can buy from dealership or sometimes a parts store sorry cant say they not originals part or not by numbers can look at them and see if they bad or old
most aftermarket sources use a seal with is identical to oem. if the seals are dried they will leak eventually.
most of parts that garage install are not original so its thrue they are not the same as the original equipment
well unless they are seals from the manufacturer then they will have some small variances. I'd say you get another shop to look at it before making a decision.
My previous garage told me he changed them. My new garage say he didn't because the originals are still in and they are different to replacements.Drive shaft oil seals?
Yes the after market one are a little different but the sizes are the same so you wont leak oil,the original ones will have makings one them and if they were replaced then they should not have to be replaced again so soon.Drive shaft oil seals?
The main way to tell the difference is the part number stamped on the seal and sometimes the color. If you can get the number off the seal you can call a parts store like advance and they can cross reference the part number and tell you if its original or not. Most mechanic will not get replacement parts from the dealer, so if it is the original part number then you know he didn't change it.
well its possible to buy parts from dealer
which wil be originals manufacturers parts
was they leaking was they not leaking then he replace them cant say he didnt can say they look old or not and can guess
originals manufacturers parts
and after market parts many time made by same company just one has pass a test from company to be good car companie dont make many of their own parts they buy them from companies who make them for them what makes them originals is they come from factory which you can buy from dealership or sometimes a parts store sorry cant say they not originals part or not by numbers can look at them and see if they bad or old
most aftermarket sources use a seal with is identical to oem. if the seals are dried they will leak eventually.
most of parts that garage install are not original so its thrue they are not the same as the original equipment
well unless they are seals from the manufacturer then they will have some small variances. I'd say you get another shop to look at it before making a decision.
I have a 1978 Yamaha DT. I am changing the fork seals, how much oil do I put in each fork tube?
it'll probably be hard to find a manual for that old a bike. i'd say get a measuring cup and drain all the fluid into it, recording how much came from each side. unless you had a severe seal leak it should be fairly close to how much you will want to replace in each side. just make sure if one has more than the other to go with the side that had more in it as your starting point. and also, make sure they are filled to the same level on each side.I have a 1978 Yamaha DT. I am changing the fork seals, how much oil do I put in each fork tube?
Call your local Yamaha shop and get the exact specs. You may have to call a few before you find one with a manual that old in there service dept. but if you don't get it right you'll hurt yourself.I have a 1978 Yamaha DT. I am changing the fork seals, how much oil do I put in each fork tube?
Always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions.
Yamaha made a DT100 - DT125 - DT175 in 1978 and every one has different forks.
you need fork oil generaly obout 4 to 5 oz just make sure to put even amounts in both sides you can take old car valve springs and put them on top of your old springs for extra stiffness you might have to cut them a bit good luck
Call your local Yamaha shop and get the exact specs. You may have to call a few before you find one with a manual that old in there service dept. but if you don't get it right you'll hurt yourself.I have a 1978 Yamaha DT. I am changing the fork seals, how much oil do I put in each fork tube?
Always give year, make, engine size and model # when asking questions.
Yamaha made a DT100 - DT125 - DT175 in 1978 and every one has different forks.
you need fork oil generaly obout 4 to 5 oz just make sure to put even amounts in both sides you can take old car valve springs and put them on top of your old springs for extra stiffness you might have to cut them a bit good luck
Does Oil Can Henry ever feel drained? Trapped in a viscous cycle. Is his fate sealed?
I know he feels this way now. But this feeling will pass. He's just going through a transmission.
Replaced head and valve stem oil seals and still smokes?
would this b rings it went threw gallon of oil in no timeReplaced head and valve stem oil seals and still smokes?
This goes to prove that valve stem seals do not fix loose valve guides. If your car uses that much oil I'd suspect the rings are stuck in the ring grooves in the pistons or the ring end-gaps have opened-up. The faces of the piston rings could also be worn. The piston skirts may have galled-up the cylinders so the rings no longer seal.
Wish we knew the year make and model of the carReplaced head and valve stem oil seals and still smokes?
The only way to be sure is to do a compression test on the engine, this will show if there is wear of the piston rings. You need to do a dry test, then add a tea spoon of engine oil into each of the pistons (via the spark plugs) then re-test. If there is a major difference between the two reading, then its time for a re-build.
Just out of interest when the valve stem seals were changed did you check the valve stem guide clearances? If the valve stem guides are worn then no mater how good the stem seals there will always be oil consumption.
Ja.
Rings could be bad, Also you may have a bad leak also. A gallon of oil is a massive amount of loss. Was the valve stem oil seals put in properly?
rings are possible as stated but the pcv valve could be stuck as well,pulling oil from the crank case into the intake system
i would say you have bad rings.
This goes to prove that valve stem seals do not fix loose valve guides. If your car uses that much oil I'd suspect the rings are stuck in the ring grooves in the pistons or the ring end-gaps have opened-up. The faces of the piston rings could also be worn. The piston skirts may have galled-up the cylinders so the rings no longer seal.
Wish we knew the year make and model of the carReplaced head and valve stem oil seals and still smokes?
The only way to be sure is to do a compression test on the engine, this will show if there is wear of the piston rings. You need to do a dry test, then add a tea spoon of engine oil into each of the pistons (via the spark plugs) then re-test. If there is a major difference between the two reading, then its time for a re-build.
Just out of interest when the valve stem seals were changed did you check the valve stem guide clearances? If the valve stem guides are worn then no mater how good the stem seals there will always be oil consumption.
Ja.
Rings could be bad, Also you may have a bad leak also. A gallon of oil is a massive amount of loss. Was the valve stem oil seals put in properly?
rings are possible as stated but the pcv valve could be stuck as well,pulling oil from the crank case into the intake system
i would say you have bad rings.
Timing belt and oil seals repair cost? Prelude 99? $500?
I went to the mechanic and he told me that my car is leaking Oil, he told me that i need to replace the timing belt and the oil seals, he said for the part will be like $100 and labor $399 because it will be like 4 hours.
Do you think this is a fair? should I go to another place?Timing belt and oil seals repair cost? Prelude 99? $500?
Very. A timing belt usually cost's more than that for labor.Timing belt and oil seals repair cost? Prelude 99? $500?
Well you only need to replace your timing belt if the oil has leaked all over it, or if its been 5yr/60,000 miles since you last did it. With your timing belt though, make sure you do the timing belt tensioner as well. If you don't do the tensioner, there's no point in getting the belt replaced. Do the water pump as well of course while hes in there, and replace the seals for the oil leak and white your at it maybe change the cam seal, because in Prelude's the cam seals eventually end up leaking as well and if you haven't already replaced it, might as well! But sounds good for the price, see how much he'll charge you with the tensioner, water pump and cam seal added on to that. I would request OEM parts too, if your mechanic can't get them, you could just order them yourself online and let him do the labor.
labor sounds ok. this is what you should do since your tering into it.
timing belt - I would ask for oem honda part 70.00
water pump - oem honda 90.00
seals you can get away with aftermarket -
water pump will add to the labor about 1.5 hours.
what he quoted is aftermarket parts, probably good quality. but only the belt and oil seals.
Actually that sounds fair (for any car)- if he's replacing the water pump too. I had mine replaced for $550 about 2 years ago. It's worth it. This is just a normal recommended service so don't think that your car is falling apart. These are good cars.
it yould be $605.00 at my dealership
oh replace the water pump too while he's at it this way its new
and you will not have to do it all over again the pump is driven
by the timing belt
makeup tips
Do you think this is a fair? should I go to another place?Timing belt and oil seals repair cost? Prelude 99? $500?
Very. A timing belt usually cost's more than that for labor.Timing belt and oil seals repair cost? Prelude 99? $500?
Well you only need to replace your timing belt if the oil has leaked all over it, or if its been 5yr/60,000 miles since you last did it. With your timing belt though, make sure you do the timing belt tensioner as well. If you don't do the tensioner, there's no point in getting the belt replaced. Do the water pump as well of course while hes in there, and replace the seals for the oil leak and white your at it maybe change the cam seal, because in Prelude's the cam seals eventually end up leaking as well and if you haven't already replaced it, might as well! But sounds good for the price, see how much he'll charge you with the tensioner, water pump and cam seal added on to that. I would request OEM parts too, if your mechanic can't get them, you could just order them yourself online and let him do the labor.
labor sounds ok. this is what you should do since your tering into it.
timing belt - I would ask for oem honda part 70.00
water pump - oem honda 90.00
seals you can get away with aftermarket -
water pump will add to the labor about 1.5 hours.
what he quoted is aftermarket parts, probably good quality. but only the belt and oil seals.
Actually that sounds fair (for any car)- if he's replacing the water pump too. I had mine replaced for $550 about 2 years ago. It's worth it. This is just a normal recommended service so don't think that your car is falling apart. These are good cars.
it yould be $605.00 at my dealership
oh replace the water pump too while he's at it this way its new
and you will not have to do it all over again the pump is driven
by the timing belt
Is fully synthetic oil ok for a 1992 BMW 318is coupe? How do I find out if engine seals, etc, are compatible?
I just answered a similar question...
Use whichever brand you like, but make sure it's synthetic and meets the BMW LL-01 (';BMW Longlife';) specs. Make sure you see ';BMW LL-01'; in their specs sheet.
Here's a full list of every oil that has this. But in your case of course, don't pick the ones for diesel engines...
ADDINOL Super power MV 0537 SAE 5W-30 Addinol Lube Oil GmbH
Agip Formula LL B 01 SAE 0W-30 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip Sint 2000 Evolution SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip TECSINT SL SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Aral SuperTronic SAE 5W-30 Aral
AXCL S-Class Motor Oil SAE 0W-30 AXCL Gulf FZE
BP Visco 7000 SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 Special SAE 0W-30 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
SBS 5.0 ';Longlife-01'; BMW AG - TIS 26.12.2004 21:36
Castrol Formula SLX LL01 SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula SLX Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula RS Power and Protection SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol Syntec SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Super Racing 0W-40 SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol TXT Softec LL01 SAE 5W-30 Castrol Limited
Cepsa Star Mega Synthetic SAE 0W-30 Cepsa Lubricantes S.A.
Elf Excellium LDX SAE 0W-30 Total
Formula Shell Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Gulf Formula TLX SAE 0W-30 Total
Havoline Synthetic BM SAE 0W-30 Texaco
Igol Process Compact P SAE 5W-30 Igol France S.A.
Jet Top Level SAE 0W-40 ConocoPhillips GmbH
Labo RC SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Labo Auto S.A.
Liqui Moly Longlife High Tech SAE 5W-30 Liqui Moly
megol Motoren枚l New Generation SAE 5W-30 Meguin GmbH
Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Motorex Profile B-XL SAE 0W-30 Bucher AG
Motorex Select SP-X SAE 5W-30 Bucher AG
Motul Specific LL-01 SAE 5W-30 Motul S.A:
OMV full syn plus SAE 5W-30 OMV AG
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Pentospeed 0W-30 VS* SAE 0W-30 Deutsche Pentosin-Werke
Petronas Syntium 3000 LL SAE 5W-30 Petronas
Q8 Formula Special SAE 0W-30 Kuwait Petroleum
Quaker State European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Satoil LazerWay B SAE 5W-30 Svenska Statoil AB
Shell Helix Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Titan Supersyn SL SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Petrolub AG
Valvoline SynPower MXL SAE 0W-30 Valvoline
Veedol Powertron LL01 SAE 5W-30 Veedol International
Veedol Syntron SAE 0W-30 Veedol International
Wintershall VIVA 1 Longlife SAE 5W-30 SRS Schmierstoff Vertrieb GmbH
Yacco VX 1600 SAE 5W-30 Yacco S.A.S.
It's interesting to see many of the ';popular recommendations'; are not on the list; such as the Mobil 1 5W-30.
I personally use Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (German made - only available in Autozone).Is fully synthetic oil ok for a 1992 BMW 318is coupe? How do I find out if engine seals, etc, are compatible?
The new synthetic oils of today are much better today and are less likely to leak throught the seals or small leaks like those of synthetics of a decade ago.
So do not fear about leaks popping up. Also, synthetic oils are far more superior than regular oil, so you can't loose if you do the switch. Unlike what they've said in the past, you can always go back to regular oil if you don't like it, or if it gets too expensive for you.Is fully synthetic oil ok for a 1992 BMW 318is coupe? How do I find out if engine seals, etc, are compatible?
mobile 1 will work just fine in your car. No compatibility problems
ask your bimmer repair shop.
Use whichever brand you like, but make sure it's synthetic and meets the BMW LL-01 (';BMW Longlife';) specs. Make sure you see ';BMW LL-01'; in their specs sheet.
Here's a full list of every oil that has this. But in your case of course, don't pick the ones for diesel engines...
ADDINOL Super power MV 0537 SAE 5W-30 Addinol Lube Oil GmbH
Agip Formula LL B 01 SAE 0W-30 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip Sint 2000 Evolution SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip TECSINT SL SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Aral SuperTronic SAE 5W-30 Aral
AXCL S-Class Motor Oil SAE 0W-30 AXCL Gulf FZE
BP Visco 7000 SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 Special SAE 0W-30 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
SBS 5.0 ';Longlife-01'; BMW AG - TIS 26.12.2004 21:36
Castrol Formula SLX LL01 SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula SLX Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula RS Power and Protection SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol Syntec SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Super Racing 0W-40 SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol TXT Softec LL01 SAE 5W-30 Castrol Limited
Cepsa Star Mega Synthetic SAE 0W-30 Cepsa Lubricantes S.A.
Elf Excellium LDX SAE 0W-30 Total
Formula Shell Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Gulf Formula TLX SAE 0W-30 Total
Havoline Synthetic BM SAE 0W-30 Texaco
Igol Process Compact P SAE 5W-30 Igol France S.A.
Jet Top Level SAE 0W-40 ConocoPhillips GmbH
Labo RC SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Labo Auto S.A.
Liqui Moly Longlife High Tech SAE 5W-30 Liqui Moly
megol Motoren枚l New Generation SAE 5W-30 Meguin GmbH
Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Motorex Profile B-XL SAE 0W-30 Bucher AG
Motorex Select SP-X SAE 5W-30 Bucher AG
Motul Specific LL-01 SAE 5W-30 Motul S.A:
OMV full syn plus SAE 5W-30 OMV AG
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Pentospeed 0W-30 VS* SAE 0W-30 Deutsche Pentosin-Werke
Petronas Syntium 3000 LL SAE 5W-30 Petronas
Q8 Formula Special SAE 0W-30 Kuwait Petroleum
Quaker State European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Satoil LazerWay B SAE 5W-30 Svenska Statoil AB
Shell Helix Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Titan Supersyn SL SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Petrolub AG
Valvoline SynPower MXL SAE 0W-30 Valvoline
Veedol Powertron LL01 SAE 5W-30 Veedol International
Veedol Syntron SAE 0W-30 Veedol International
Wintershall VIVA 1 Longlife SAE 5W-30 SRS Schmierstoff Vertrieb GmbH
Yacco VX 1600 SAE 5W-30 Yacco S.A.S.
It's interesting to see many of the ';popular recommendations'; are not on the list; such as the Mobil 1 5W-30.
I personally use Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (German made - only available in Autozone).Is fully synthetic oil ok for a 1992 BMW 318is coupe? How do I find out if engine seals, etc, are compatible?
The new synthetic oils of today are much better today and are less likely to leak throught the seals or small leaks like those of synthetics of a decade ago.
So do not fear about leaks popping up. Also, synthetic oils are far more superior than regular oil, so you can't loose if you do the switch. Unlike what they've said in the past, you can always go back to regular oil if you don't like it, or if it gets too expensive for you.Is fully synthetic oil ok for a 1992 BMW 318is coupe? How do I find out if engine seals, etc, are compatible?
mobile 1 will work just fine in your car. No compatibility problems
ask your bimmer repair shop.
1996 Mustang Cobra 5 speed manual trans.Is there serviceable trans or clutch oil or a sealed gearbox?
there is a plug for adding fluid no clutch oil however there is a hydraulic clutch and it has a fluid reservoir on the firewall
hope this helps
hope this helps
1996 Mustang Cobra 5 speed manual trans.Is there serviceable trans or clutch oil or a sealed gearbox?
Trans is serviceable, Clutch is a dry clutch system.
Front and rear oil seals?
I need to replace my front and rear oil seals on my 1955 chevy 265 cu. Motor. How do I get that front pully off. Then what do I do on the rear seal?Front and rear oil seals?
pulley puller, drop or pull tyrannyFront and rear oil seals?
You will need a harmonic balancer puller for the front. Available at most parts stores. You will need to remove the front timing chain cover to change the seal, probably a good time to renew the chain and gears as well.. For the rear seal the oil pan will have to be dropped. the rear main bearing cap will have to come down. Its also possible you may have to losen the other four caps to remove the top half seal. Besure to retorque all cap properly. Unless your a good mechanic I suggest you spring for the money and have it done at a shop..
You need a lot more than just the seal.
Timing chain cover gasket.
Water pump. (since your need to remove it anyway)
Water pump gaskets.
Coolant.
Silicone sealant.
Timing chain and gears.
Oil filter.
Oil.
Locktite thread locker
Pulley puller
1/2'; air impact wrench
appropriate sockets.
Seal puller
Seal installer
AND most importantly a repair manual.
on the back seal you have to drop the oil pan then take the back main bearing cap off and there,s your seal.you can get to the front seal that way too.
pulley puller, drop or pull tyrannyFront and rear oil seals?
You will need a harmonic balancer puller for the front. Available at most parts stores. You will need to remove the front timing chain cover to change the seal, probably a good time to renew the chain and gears as well.. For the rear seal the oil pan will have to be dropped. the rear main bearing cap will have to come down. Its also possible you may have to losen the other four caps to remove the top half seal. Besure to retorque all cap properly. Unless your a good mechanic I suggest you spring for the money and have it done at a shop..
You need a lot more than just the seal.
Timing chain cover gasket.
Water pump. (since your need to remove it anyway)
Water pump gaskets.
Coolant.
Silicone sealant.
Timing chain and gears.
Oil filter.
Oil.
Locktite thread locker
Pulley puller
1/2'; air impact wrench
appropriate sockets.
Seal puller
Seal installer
AND most importantly a repair manual.
on the back seal you have to drop the oil pan then take the back main bearing cap off and there,s your seal.you can get to the front seal that way too.
Which is the best brush that I can use to paint the sealing of a bathroom with oil paint?
a Purdy brushWhich is the best brush that I can use to paint the sealing of a bathroom with oil paint?
if your painting the whole ceiling use a roller it is much faster 3/4 nap and you can throw it away when your doneWhich is the best brush that I can use to paint the sealing of a bathroom with oil paint?
when using oil paint always us a natural bristle brush NOT NYLON
if your painting the whole ceiling use a roller it is much faster 3/4 nap and you can throw it away when your doneWhich is the best brush that I can use to paint the sealing of a bathroom with oil paint?
when using oil paint always us a natural bristle brush NOT NYLON
Motorbike oil seals leaking for NO REASON!?
My motorbike passed an MOT last year, and then has sat in the garage all year having done only 10 miles. When I went to take it out for a new MOT, I found the front fork seals are badly leaking, which obviously weren't last year or they wouldn't have passed the test. My question: is it normal for oil seals to deteriorate without any use? Both seals are leaking just as badly. I had assumed the oil had just crept out slowly over the year (they are upside-down forks on a sports bike) but when I actually rode it, after a few miles I could see the amount of oil was quite great. Is this normal deterioration?Motorbike oil seals leaking for NO REASON!?
Seals can dry out without regular use. The petroleum inside help keep them moist.
Ride the bike more next time.Motorbike oil seals leaking for NO REASON!?
It's not unusual for them to deteriorate from non-use.makeup tips
Seals can dry out without regular use. The petroleum inside help keep them moist.
Ride the bike more next time.Motorbike oil seals leaking for NO REASON!?
It's not unusual for them to deteriorate from non-use.
Replace the valve stem oil seals?
My 1994 Isuzu Trooper has blue smoke when it is cranked after sitting for several hours and the engine is cold. It doesn't smoke on startup when the engine is warm. There is much more smoke the longer it has sat such as over night or for a day or two. I was wondering if it could possibly be the valve stem oil seals. The engine uses very little oil (maybe half a quart every 2000 miles) and has 190,000 miles on it. It runs good other than the startup smoking problem. I was thinking that as long as the engine is warm then maybe the seals expand and seal better and when the engine cools they contract and oil gets to the cylinder at startup. Does this sound like a possible cause? I have a shop manual for this car and it looks like a pretty straight forward fix although I would probably have mechanic do the work. The book I have only explains the fix and not the symptoms of bad seals. Does my engine have the symptoms? It's a 3.2 liter V6 with dual overhead cams.Replace the valve stem oil seals?
Hey Blazer I Normaly dont give out trade secrets that took a combination of 33yr master auto tech,repair shop owner,but im going to let you in on one.
all the previous awnsers are good sound advice,but i think you may have a combination of problems,probably worn seals,and some wear on the int. valve guides...... BUT there may be a cheap solution to your problem ,which could solve 80% of your problem,here it is
On dual overhead cam engines,well all engines ,over time ,high mileage the oil return holes in head become plugged,remove valve covers and verify,if you use penz,or quaker state a pariffin base oil you will Know this is the prob.
Take a shop vac and a wire and unplug oil return holes ,should be 2 on each head,being careful not to let debri fall to pan ,do NOT disturb any more than nessary reinstall valve covers ,you can do this your self, if this cheap fix dosent work, than follow prev. advice Post IF THIS SOLVES your prob.Replace the valve stem oil seals?
You have really just answered your own ?.Its called wear and tear items.In your owners manual it should give you a scheduled maintenance for your ride or go to your local Isuzu dealership and will steer you in right direction.They will let you know what needs to be changed and replaced with a SUV with high miles.Sometimes its probably better and cheaper at a local Joe garage.Also keep in mind who is certified and not.
With 200,000 miles, any money spent on this eng other than a total rebuild is wasted. Drive it until it wont pass smog check any longer and then rebuild the eng or trade it in.
Sounds like the right cause.
The ohc engines are more difficult to change out the seals normally but it sounds like the reason for the smoke on start-up.
Hey Blazer I Normaly dont give out trade secrets that took a combination of 33yr master auto tech,repair shop owner,but im going to let you in on one.
all the previous awnsers are good sound advice,but i think you may have a combination of problems,probably worn seals,and some wear on the int. valve guides...... BUT there may be a cheap solution to your problem ,which could solve 80% of your problem,here it is
On dual overhead cam engines,well all engines ,over time ,high mileage the oil return holes in head become plugged,remove valve covers and verify,if you use penz,or quaker state a pariffin base oil you will Know this is the prob.
Take a shop vac and a wire and unplug oil return holes ,should be 2 on each head,being careful not to let debri fall to pan ,do NOT disturb any more than nessary reinstall valve covers ,you can do this your self, if this cheap fix dosent work, than follow prev. advice Post IF THIS SOLVES your prob.Replace the valve stem oil seals?
You have really just answered your own ?.Its called wear and tear items.In your owners manual it should give you a scheduled maintenance for your ride or go to your local Isuzu dealership and will steer you in right direction.They will let you know what needs to be changed and replaced with a SUV with high miles.Sometimes its probably better and cheaper at a local Joe garage.Also keep in mind who is certified and not.
With 200,000 miles, any money spent on this eng other than a total rebuild is wasted. Drive it until it wont pass smog check any longer and then rebuild the eng or trade it in.
Sounds like the right cause.
The ohc engines are more difficult to change out the seals normally but it sounds like the reason for the smoke on start-up.
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